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The pilgrimage 
of Arculfus in 
the Holy Land 



Saint Adamnan 



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LIBRARY OF THE 
UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA 




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PILGRIMAGE OF ARCULFUS 

IN THE 

HOLY LAND. 



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Palestine pilgrims' Htxt gocietg. 



. X 
THE 



PILGRIMAGE OF ARCULFUS 



IN THE 



HOLY LAND, 



(About the Year A.D. 670). 
Uranalattb anb &nnotaUb 

BY THE 

REV. JAMES ROSE MACPHERSON, B.D. 




LONDON: 

i, ADAM STREET, ADELPHI. 
1889. 



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A Lb 
DS 

joe 
.PI 

v. 3 
1889 



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CONTENTS. 



PACK 



PREFACE 



XI 

- xix 



LIST OF MANUSCRIPTS 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT 1 
HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY 
ADAMNAN. 
BOOK I. 



INTRODUCTION ------ 

I. THE SITUATION OF JERUSALEM, THE GATES OF THE 
CITY, THE YEARLY MARKET, THE SITE OF THE TEMPLE, 
THE ORATORY OF THE SARACENS, THE GREAT HOUSES 
Hi THE ROUND CHURCH BUILT ABOVE THE SEPULCHRE OF 
THE LORD 

III. THE FORM OF THE SEPULCHRE ITSELF AND ITS LITTLE 

CABIN - ' - 

IV. THE STONE THAT WAS ROLLEIfc TO THE MOUTH OF THE 

TOMB, WHICH THE ANGEL OF THE LORD, DESCENDING 
FROM HEAVEN AFTER HIS RESURRECTION, ROLLED 
BACK; THE CHAPEL, AND THE SEPULCHRE - 

V. THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY, WHICH ADJOINS THE ROUND 

CHURCH ------ 

VI. THE CHURCH THAT IS BUILT ON THE SITE OF CALVARY 
VII. THE BASILICA WHICH CONSTANTINE BUILT CLOSE TO 

THE ABOVE-NAMED CHURCH ON THE SPOT WHERE 
THE CROSS OF THE LORD, WHICH HAD BEEN BURIED 
IN RUINS, WAS FOUND, WHEN AFTER MANY CENTURIES 
THE EARTH WAS DUG UP 
VIII. THE SITE OF THE ALTAR OF ABRAHAM 



5 
6 

8 
9 

9 



CHAPTER 



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CONTENTS. 



CHAKTEK 



PACK 



IX. THE RECESS SITUATED BETWEEN THE CHURCH OF CAL- 
VARY AND THE BASILICA OF CONSTANTINE, IN WHICH 
ARE KEPT THE CUP OF THE LORD AND THE SPONGE 
FROM WHICH, AS HE HUNG ON THE TREE, HE DRANK 
VINEGAR AND WINE - 
X. THE SPEAR OF THE SOLDIER WITH WHICH HE PIERCED 

THE. SIDE OF THE LORD - 
XI. THE NAPKIN WITH WHICH THE HEAD OF THE LORD 
WAS COVERED IN THE SEPULCHRE - 

XII. ANOTHER SACRED LINEN CLOTH WHICH, AS IS SAID, 
ST. MARY THE VIRGIN, THE MOTHER OF THE LORD, 
WOVE ------ 

XIII. THE LOFTY COLUMN SITUATED ON THE SPOT WHERE A 

DEAD YOUNG MAN CAME TO LIFE AGAIN, WHEN THE 
CROSS OF THE LORD WAS PLACED ON HIM ; AND THE 
MIDDLE OF THE WORLD - 

XIV. THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY BUILT IN THE VALLEY OF 

JOSAPHAT, IN WHICH IS HER TOMB 
XV. THE TOWER OF JOSAPHAT BUILT IN THE SAME VALLEY - 
XVI. THE TOMBS OF SIMEON AND JOSEPH - 
XVII. THE CAVE IN THE ROCK OF THE MOUNT OF OLIVET, 
ACROSS THE VALLEY OF JOSAPHAT, IN WHICH ARE 
FOUR TABLES AND TWO WELLS 
XVIIL THE GATE OF DAVID, AND THE PLACE WHERE JUDAS 
ISCARIOTH HANGED HIMSELF BY A ROPE 
XIX. THE FORM OF THE GREAT BASILICA BUILT ON MOUNT 
SION, AND THE SITUATION OF THAT MOUNTAIN - 
XX. THE LITTLE FIELD CALLED IN HEBREW AKELDEMAC - 
XXI. THE ROUGH AND ROCKY GROUND THAT EXTENDS FAR 
AND WIDE, FROM JERUSALEM TO THE CITY OF 
SAMUEL, AND TO CfiSAREA OF PALESTINE TOWARDS 
THE WEST ------ 

XXIL THE MOUNT OF OLIVET, ITS HEIGHT AND THE 
CHARACTER OF ITS SOIL - - - - 

XXIII. THE PLACE OF THE ASCENSION OF THE LORD, AND 

THE CHURCH BUILT ON IT - 

XXIV. THE SEPULCHRE OF LAZARUS AND THE CHURCH BUILT 

ABOVE IT, AND THE ADJOINING MONASTERY 
XXV. ANOTHER CHURCH BUILT TO THE RIGHT OF BETHANY 



II 
12 
12 

16 

16 

17 
18 
18 

18 

19 

20 
21 

21 

21 

22 

26 
26 



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vii 



BOOK II. 



CHAPTER 



PAGB 



I. THE SITUATION OF BETHLEHEM 



- 28 



II. THE PLACE OF THE NATIVITY OF THE LORD, THE 

CHURCH OF ST. MARY - - - - 28 

III. THE ROCK SITUATED BEYOND THE WALL, UPON 

WHICH THE WATER, IN WHICH HE WAS FIRST 
WASHED AFTER HIS BIRTH, WAS POURED- - 29 

IV. ANOTHER CHURCH, IN WHICH THE TOMB OF DAVID 

IS SEEN - - - - - - 30 

V. THE CHURCH WITHIN WHICH IS THE SEPULCHRE 

OF ST. HIERONYMUS (JEROME) - - - 30 

VI. THE TOMBS OF THE THREE SHEPHERDS, AROUND 
WHOM, WHEN THE LORD WAS BORN, THE HEAVENLY 
BRIGHTNESS SHONE; AND THEIR CHURCH - 30 

VIL THE SEPULCHRE OF RACHEL- - - 31 

VIII. HEBRON - - - - - - 31 

IX. THE VALLEY OF MAMBRE, AND THE SEPULCHRE OF 

THE FOUR PATRIARCHS - - - - 32 

X. THE HILL AND THE OAK OF MAMBRE - - 33 

XI. THE PINE-FOREST FROM WHICH FIREWOOD IS BROUGHT 

TO JERUSALEM ON CAMELS - - "34 

XII. JERICHO - - - - - - 35 

XIII. GALGAL, AND THE TWELVE STONES WHICH THE 

CHILDREN OF ISRAEL, AFTER CROSSING THE RIVER 
JORDAN, TOOK FROM ITS DRIED CHANNEL - 35 

XIV. THE PLACE WHERE OUR LORD WAS BAPTIZED BY 

JOHN - - - - - 36 

XV. THE COLOUR OF THE JORDAN AND THE DEAD SEA- 38 
XVI. THE DEAD SEA — CONTINUED- - - - 39 

XVII. THE FOUNTAINS OF THE JORDAN - - - 39 

XVIII. THE SEA OF GALILEE - - - 40 

XIX. SICHEM AND THE WELL OF SAMARIA - - 41 

XX. A LITTLE FOUNTAIN IN THE WILDERNESS - - 43 
XXL THE LOCUSTS AND THE WILD HONEY - - 43 

XXII. THE PLACE WHERE THE LORD BLESSED THE FIVE 

LOAVES AND THE TWO FISHES - - "43 

XXIII. THE SEA OF TIBERIAS AND CAPHARNAUM - - 44 




viii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER PAGS 

XXIV. NAZARETH AND ITS CHURCHES - - "45 

XXV. MOUNT TABOR - - - - - 46 

XXVI. DAMASCUS - - - - - 47 

XXVII. TYRE- - - - - - " 47 

XXVIII. ALEXANDRIA, AND THE RIVER NILE AND ITS CROCO- 
DILES - - - - - - 48 

BOOK III. 

I. THE CITY OF CONSTANTINOPLE - - - - 53 

II. THE FOUNDATION OF THAT CITY - - "53 

III. THE CHURCH IN WHICH THE CROSS OF THE LORD IS 

PRESERVED - - - - - - 55. 

IV. ST. GEORGE THE CONFESSOR - - - - 57 
V. THE PICTURE OF ST. MARY - - - - 62 

VI. MOUNT VULCAN - - - - - - 63 

VII. EPILOGUE - - - - - - 64 



THE VENERABLE BEDE CONCERNING 
THE HOLY PLACES. 

( The numbers in parentheses show the corresponding chapters of Arculfus.) 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. (BOOK I., CHAP. I.) THE SITUATION OF JERUSALEM - 67 
II. (CHAP. VII., VI., II., III., IV., V., VIII., X.) THE CHURCH OF 
CONSTANTINE AND OF GOLGOTHA, THE CHURCH OF 
THE RESURRECTION AND THE SEPULCHRE OF THE LORD, 
THE STONE THAT WAS ROLLED TO THE MOUTH OF 
THE TOMB, THE CHURCH OF ST. MARY, THE CUP OF 
THE LORD AND THE SPONGE, THE ALTAR OF ABRA- 
HAM, THE SOLDIER'S SPEAR - - - - 68 
III. (I., XIX., XXIII.) THE TEMPLE, THE ORATORY OF THE 
SARACENS, THE POOL OF BETHESDA, THE FOUNTAIN 
OF SILOA, THE CHURCH BUILT UPON MOUNT SION, 
THE PLACE QF THE STONING OF ST. STEPHEN, THE 
MIDDLE OF THE WORLD - ... - 70 



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CONTENTS. ix 

CHAPTER PAGE 

IV. (XL, XII.) THE NAPKIN OF THE HEAD OF THE LORD, AND 

ANOTHER LARGER LINEN CLOTH WOVEN BY ST. MARY *J2 
V. (XXL, XV., XVI., XIV.) THE PLACES ROUND JERUSALEM, 
THE VALLEY OF JOSAPHAT, HIS SEPULCHRE AND 
THOSE OF OTHERS, THE CHURCH IN WHICH ST. MARY 
WAS BURIED - - - - - " 73 

VI. (XVIII., XX.) THE PLACE WHERE JUDAS WAS HANGED, 

AND ACHELDEMAC - - - - "74 

VII. (XXII., XXIII., XXIV., XXV.) THE MOUNT OF OLIVET AND 
THE CHURCH BUILT THERE, WHERE THE LORD 
ASCENDED INTO THE HEAVENS — THE TOMB OF 
LAZARUS, AND A THIRD CHURCH - - "74 

viii. (BOOK II., chap, i., il, in., iv. v., vi., vii.) the 

SITUATION OF BETHLEHEM, THE CHURCH UPON THE 
PLACE WHERE THE LORD WAS BORN, THE SEPULCHRES 
OF DAVID AND HIERONYMUS AND THE THREE SHEP- 
HERDS, AND ALSO THAT OF RACHEL - - J 6 
IX. (VIII., IX., X., XI.) THE SITUATION OF HEBRON, MAMBRE, 
AND THE TOMB OF THE PATRIARCHS AND OF ADAM, 
THE PINE WOOD - - - - - 77 

X. (XII., XIII.) JERICHO AND ITS HOLY PLACES, GALGAL 
AND THE FOUNTAIN OF HELISEUS, THE GREAT 
PLAIN - - - - * 77 

XI. (XV., XVII., XVIII.) THE JORDAN AND THE SEA OF 

GALILEE - - - - - - 79 

XIL (XV., XVI.) THE DEAD SEA AND ITS NATURE, AND 

THAT OF THE NEIGHBOURING DISTRICT - - 8o 

XIII. (XIV.) THE PLACE WHERE THE LORD WAS BAPTIZED - 82 

XIV. (XXL, XX.) THE LOCUSTS AND THE WILD HONEY, AND 

THE FOUNTAIN OF JOHN THE BAPTIST - - 82 

XV. (XIX.) THE FOUNTAIN OF JACOB NEAR SICHEM - 83 

XVI. (XXIL, XVIII., XXIII., XXIV.) TIBERIAS AND CAPHARNAUM 

AND NAZARETH AND THE HOLY PLACES THERE - 83 

XVII. (XXV.) MOUNT TABOR AND THE THREE CHURCHES ON IT 84 

XVIII. (XXVI.) THE SITUATION OF DAMASCUS - - 84 

XIX. (XXVIII.) THE SITUATION OF ALEXANDRIA, THE CHURCH 
IN WHICH MARK THE EVANGELIST RESTS, AND THE 

NILE ' - 84 



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CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER PACE 

XX. (BOOK HI., CHAP. I.) CONSTANTINOPLE, AND THE 
BASILICA IN THAT CITY WHICH CONTAINS THE CROSS 
OF THE LORD - - - - -85 

XXI. EPILOGUE - - - - - - 87 



APPENDIX. 

TRANSLATION OF PORTIONS OF 4 ARCULF's NARRATIVE,' FROM 

PROFESSOR WILLIS' * HOLY SEPULCHRE* - - - 88 



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PREFACE. 



NOTHING appears to be known of Arculfus, the pilgrini of 
whose travels this work is a narrative, beyond the very 
slight notices of him contained in the work itself and in a 
reference to it by the Venerable Bede in his 'Ecclesiastical 
History.' From these we learn that he was a native of 
France (Gaul), and that at the time when he undertook the 
journey referred to he had attained the rank of Bishop; 
but we have no information at -all as to the see over which 
he presided. It is stated by Bede that his bishopric was 
in France, and, although this might be a mere supposition 
grounded on the references in the record itself, we need 
not hesitate to accept it as being correct. His pilgrimage 
to the East was undertaken about the year a.d. 670, accord- 
ing to the calculation of Dr. Tobler (Soctet^ de TOrient 
Latin), and it must have occupied some time. He spent 
nine months in the city of Jerusalem (possibly during that 
period he may have made shorter visits to the south or 
the north of Palestine), and he gives us an account of the 
chief places of interest to the west of the Jordan, including 
in the south, Bethlehem, Hebron, Jericho, Galgal, and 
the Dead Sea, — and in the north, Sichem, Mount Tabor, 
Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee, and the sources of the Jordan. 
After extending his travels as far as Tyre and Damascus, 




xii 



PREFACE. 



and returning to Jerusalem, he sailed from Joppa to 
Alexandria, taking forty days to accomplish the voyage. 
From Egypt he passed to Crete, spending some days there, 
and thence to Constantinople, where he stayed for some 
months— from Easter to Christmas. On his voyage home- 
wards he visited Sicily and proceeded to Rome. Here, 
however, his good fortune ceased, as the ship in which he 
had hoped to reach his home after leaving Rome was 
caught in a violent storm, which drove it so completely out 
of its course that it was cast on one of the western points 
of Scotland, and we find Arculf 'at length, after many 
dangers/ at Iona, the guest of Adamnan, the Abbot of the 
Monastery of Hy, who, according to Bede's narrative 
(book v., cap. 15), 'found him to be learned in the 
Scriptures, and acquainted with the Holy Places, so that he 
received him most willingly, and heard him more willingly ; 
so much so that he himself caused to be at once committed to 
writing whatever he testified to be worthy of mention of all 
that he had seen in the Holy Places.' Adamnan, in his own 
narrative, represents himself as sedulously asking Arculf to 
tell him his experiences, and writing them down at once, 
as they were dictated, on waxed tablets, from which he 
afterwards compiled this work, with such additional infor- 
mation as he thought it advisable to insert from the works 
of other writers with which he was acquainted, and with 
the omission of a good deal of matter which was already 
sufficiently well known from those other works. Arculf 
had, in part of his travels, been accompanied by a Burgun- 
dian monk, whom he calls Peter, who acted as his guid^, 
and of whose haste he at times complains. Peter, according 
to one MS. (Codex Caduinensis), had been for a long time 
in exile for the Lord's sake : he was well acquainted with 
the Holy Places in Palestine, and he is represented as living 
in a • solitary place/ which he was apparently desirous of 




PREFACE. 



xiii 



returning to more hurriedly than accorded with the wishes 
of his companion. 

It would be out of place to enter here on any general 
details as to the life and position of. Adamnan, who is the 
actual writer of this work. A native of Ireland (probably 
of Donegal), where he was born in 624, belonging to a noble 
family, he is first known to us as entering the brotherhood 
of Iona, probably during the abbacy of Seghine, fifth 
abbot, 623-652. Here, during several years, he so com- 
mended himself to his brethren by his character and his 
learning, that on the death of Failbhe, eighth abbot, in 679, 
he was elected his successor. He had at some time or 
other, whether in Ireland or in Iona, been brought in 
contact with Aldfrid, the exiled prince of Northumbria, 
who is spoken of in the Irish legends as the 1 alumnus ' of 
Adamnan. Whatever this relationship may have actually 
been, it led Adamnan, on the restoration of Aldfrid in 685, 
to undertake an embassy to his court, with a view (appar- 
ently) to plead the cause of some Irish captives. It is in 
his account of this visit to Aldfrid that the Venerable Bede 
introduces his reference to this work: 'This same man 
wrote a book about the Holy Places, which is most useful 
to many readers; its real author, by instruction and by 
dictation, was Arculfus, a French Bishop (Galliarum 
Episcopus), who for the sake of the Holy Places had gone 
to Jerusalem, and having passed over all the Land of 
Promise, visited also Damascus, Constantinople, Alexandria, 
and many islands of the sea ; and as he was returning to 
his native land by sea, he was carried by the violence of a 
tempest to the western shores of Britain : and after many 
[dangers], he came to that servant of Christ, who has been 
mentioned, Adamnan, who found him to be learned in the 
Scriptures, and acquainted with the Holy Places, so that he 
received him most willingly, and heard him more willingly ; 




xiv 



PREFACE. 



so much so that he himself caused to be at once committed 
to writing whatever he testified to be worthy of mention 
of all that he had seen in the Holy Places. And he made 
a work, as I have said, which is of much use, and specially 
so to those who are so far distant from those places in 
which the patriarchs and the apostles lived that they can 
learn as to them only what they can inform themselves 
about by reading. Now, Adamnan brought this book to 
King Aldfrid, and by his liberality it was read by men of 
humbler station. The writer also was himself presented 
by him with many gifts, and sent back to his country* 
('Eccles. Hist./ book v., cap. 15). The presentation of the 
work to Aldfrid is postponed by Dr. Reeves to a second 
journey made by Adamnan in 688, when he stayed for 
some time in Northumbria. 
— v>The work, ' De Locis Sanctis / thus written by Adamnan, 
is divided into three books ; the first two of which are of 
about the same length, the third much shorter. The First 
Book opens with a description of the city of Jerusalem, 
and proceeds to describe the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 
and the neighbouring buildings, the description being of 
the greatest importance, as showing the actual position (at 
least, as understood by the writer) at a period separated 
from that of Antoninus Martyr, the next preceding pilgrim 
whose narrative is in our possession, by the Persian invasion 
under Chosroes II., when the city was all but ruined, and 
by that of the Arabs under the Caliph Omar. It has not 
been found to be practicable to insert in this volume a 
satisfactory note on these details as recorded from Arculf's 
account, but this will follow later. The narrative is inter- 
rupted by a long, and to the modern mind most useless, 
chapter as to the napkin that covered the head of the Lord 
in the sepulchre, and it is followed in this book by an 
account of the sites in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the 



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xv 



Mount of Olives, and Bethany. The Second Jiook opens 
with Southern Palestine, represented by Bethlehem and 
Hebron, with the places of interest in their neighbourhood ; 
it then brings us again northward to Jericho, the Dead Sea, 
and the different Holy Places on and near the Jordan ; 
thence it passes somewhat erratically over Shechem, Mount 
Tabor, Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee, the sources of the 
Jordan, and closes with allusions to Damascus and Tyre, 
and a longer description of Alexandria, with its harbour. 
The Third Book describes Constantinople, relates some 
marvellous incidents in connection with St. George the 
Confessor, and, after a reference to Mount Vulcan, closes 
with an Epilogue. 

The work appears to have attained very considerable 
acceptance over Europe. Disfigured as it is to our minds, 
no less by the insertion of much that is now regarded as 
simply rubbish, than by the omission of so much that we 
should have greatly welcomed, the numerous copies of it 
scattered over the Continent show the esteem in which it 
was held. The Venerable Bede prepared an abbreviation 
of it, which is also translated in this volume, and of which 
he inserted some portions in his history. In addition to 
the MSS. used by Dr. Tobler for his edition of the work, 
copies are found at the monastery of S. Germanus a Pratis 
(eighth century, probably the Corbey MS. used by Mabillon 
for his edition), at Berne (tenth century), at Rheinau 
(eleventh century), and at Salzburg (ninth or tenth cen- 
tury) (Reeves, pp. 8, 58). The first printed edition was 
published by Gretser, at Ingoldstadt, in 16 19, from a MS. 
sent to him by Father Rosweyd 'ex intima Holandia' 
(Proleg., p. 22). The text was again published, at Venice, 
in 1734, from better manuscripts, by Mabillon (Actt. SS. 
Ord. Bened., saec. iii., part 2). 

A certain special interest would attach to this work, as 




xvi 



PREFACE. 



the undoubted composition of a prior of the Scotic 
monastery of Iona, and some information might be gathered 
from it as to the exact belief of the Celtic Church on certain 
questions, were it not that Adamnan labours under the 
disadvantage for this purpose of having so strenuously 
endeavoured to introduce the Roman usages into that 
Church. The tract must have been written before the 
second visit to King Aldfrid, during which his discussions 
with Ceolfrid, Abbot of Jarrow, as to Easter and the 
tonsure, resulted in his adoption of the Roman usage ; but 
it seems scarcely possible to use it in this connection, 
although one who has studied the question closely migh 
be able to make some interesting deductions as to the 
customs of the Celtic Church. 

Dr. Reeves, the editor of Adamnan's other work, * The 
Life of St. Columba ' (published for the Irish Archaeological 
and Celtic Society, Dublin, 1857; republished, with a trans- 
lation, in the series of 'The Historians of Scotland,' 
Edinburgh, Edmonston and Douglas, 1874; the references 
are to the former edition), says (p. lxi.) that ' Of Adamnan's 
two Latin works, the tract * De Locis Sanctis ' is the better 
written and more flowing ; but it bears a striking re- 
semblance to the other in many particulars of style, and 
the use of peculiar words and phrases.' As to the latter, 
one has only, after studying the Latin text of the present 
work, to turn to the Glossary provided by Dr. Reeves, in 
order to realize how similar the vocabulary of the two 
works is. [I have to express my indebtedness to this 
Glossary for aid in one or two cases, such as the peculiar 
use of 1 pyramis,' pp. 30, 31.] But if this work is really the 
better written and more flowing of the two, one may 
express one's condolence with Dr. Reeves in the difficulty 
of the task he undertook, for even in this tract there are 
several passages in which the author's meaning is scarcely 



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PREFACE. 



xvii 



distinguishable, and where all one can do is to make what 
seems to be the best guess at the translation. This has 
been specially the case in the chapter dealing with Alex- 
andria ; and a very distinguished friend, whose assistance 
was asked as to another passage, p. 37, characterizes the 
connection of the words as passing all human comprehen- 
sion. Among the marked peculiarities that one at once 
recognises with Dr. Reeves, are 'the liberal employment 
of diminutives, so characteristic of Irish composition, used 
without any grammatical force, and commutable, in the 
same chapters, with their primitives 4 the use of frequent- 
atives and intensitives the occasional use of Greek or 
Greco- Latin words ; ' above all, the artificial, and often 
unnatural, interweaving of his words in long sentences, and 
the oft-recurring ablative absolute in awkward position* 
(Reeves, p. lxi.). 

Reference has been made already to the abbreviation of 
Adamnan's narrative made by the Venerable Bede, and a 
translation of this work is also included in this volume. 
Nothing need be said as to its author, and it is useless to 
ask .whether there can have been any connection at all 
between him and Adamnan. He professes to have done 
nothing more than ' follow trustworthy histories, and espe- 
cially that of Arculf, a Bishop of Gaul ' (p. 87). He has 
not in any way felt bound to follow the order of the former 
work, but has at times shown considerable ingenuity in 
passing from page to page. He traverses practically the 
whole range of that narrative, but in about one-third of 
the space. 

Bede, after referring to the work of Adamnan in the 
passage already quoted, devotes two chapters of his 
'Ecclesiastical History' (book v., 16, 17) to extracts from 
this work of his own in which he has abbreviated the 
longer narrative. It seems to have been generally assumed 



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xviii 



PREFACE. 



that the extracts are from the larger work, and Bede has 
used words in introducing them that certainly favour the 
idea and might mislead writers ; but they are taken almost 
word for word from the shorter tract, and differ altogether 
both in form and in language from the former text. They 
consist of the following passages: cap. viii., § I, except 
the last sentence; cap. ii., § I ; cap. vii., § I ; cap. ix., except 
the last sentence. The misapprehension as to the exact 
source has been shared by Dr. Reeves in both editions of 
his 'Life of St. Columba,' and also in his article on 
'Adaranan' in Dr. Smith's 'Dictionary of Christian 
Biography ' (vol. i., p. 42), as well as Mr. Deedes in his 
article on 'Arculf in that Dictionary (vol. i. t p. 154) 
The tract has apparently been at times known as * Libellus 
de Situ Jerusalem, sive de Locis Sanctis/ and is referred to 
only under the former part of this title by the Bishop of 
Oxford, in his notice of 1 Bede ' in the same work (vol i., 
P- 303), but there is no reason for regarding this otherwise 
than as a mistake. 

The translation has been made as literal as possible in 
passages where the exact rendering was of any contro- 
versial or archaeological importance, as in the description 
of sites and buildings; but in some other cases greater 
freedom has been used. There has been inserted as an 
Appendix, at the suggestion of Sir Charles W. Wilson, the 
rendering of some passages as given in Professor Willis' 
' Holy Sepulchre.' Sir Charles Wilson has also contributed 
some notes of special value, besides making several im- 
portant suggestions as to the translation. 

The text used is that of the Socidt£ de l'Orient Latin, 
(Itinera et Descriptions Terrae Sanctae Lingua Latina, 
Saec. IV.-XI. Exarata, sumptibus Societatis Illustrandis 
Orientis Latini Monumentis, edidit T. Tobler, Geneva, 1877, 
i., pp. 139-240). The variations of the different MSS. have 



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PREFACE. 



xix 



been noted when the sense was in any way affected, and 
the readings of the Codex Caduinensis have been specially 
noted. That MS. of the twelfth century gives a greatly 
abbreviated text, with a few interesting additions. These 
additions are always given, but the notice of the omissions 
would have involved the preparation of a separate trans- 
lation, which would have been without any gain. Tobler 
has in a similar way appended to the text of Bede the 
somewhat shorter text of the Codex Wirziburgensis, a 
MS. of the ninth century, but in this case there are no such 
additions to note. 

The following are the MSS. used by Tobler: 

ARCULFUS DE LOCIS SANCTIS. 
L. British Museum, Cotton. Tib. D.V., folio, viii.-ix. cent. 

B. Public Library of Brussels, 292, small quarto, ix. cent. 
Bern. Library of the City of Berne, 582, quarto, ix. cent. 

P. National Library, Paris, Lat. 1 3048, ix. cent. 
P. National Library of Paris, Lat. 12943, xi « cent. 
G. Abbey of St. Gall, 320, small octavo, xii. cent. 

C. Abbey of Caduinum, smallest folio, xii. cent. 
V. Vatican Library, 636, A, folio, xiii. cent. 

R.. Library of Queen Christina (Rome), 618, xv. cent. 

BEDA VENERABILIS DE LOCIS SANCTIS. 

Ma. Public Royal Library of Monaco, 6389, quarto, ix. cent. 
W. Library of the University of Wirtzburg, Mp. Th. 

f. 74, folio, ix. cent. 
Med. Ambrosian Library of Milan, x. cent. 
Pa. National Library of Paris, Lat. 2321, x. cent. 
Mb. Public Royal Library of Monaco, 13002, larger folio, 
xii. cent. 

Pb. National Library of Paris, Lat. 14797, xii. cent. 




XX 



PREFACE. 



L. British Museum, Cotton. Faust A., vii., quarto, 

xii.-xiii. cent. 
O. Lincoln's College, Oxford, 96, xiii. cent. 
Pc. National ^Library of Paris, Lat 12277, xv. cent. 

References to Antoninus Martyr, the Bordeaux Pilgrim, the Abbot 
Daniel, etc, are to the translations already published by this Society. 

References to Dr. Reeves' works are to the edition of the ' Life of 
St. Columba' published at the University Press, Dublin, for the Irish 
Archaeological and Celtic Society, 1857. 

J. R. M. 



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ARCULFS NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 
HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 



INTRODUCTION. 



In the name of the Father, of the Son, and of the Holy 
Spirit, I am about to write a book concerning the Holy 
Places. 

Arculf, a holy bishop, a Gaul by nation, well acquainted 
with many far distant lands, a truthful and right worthy 
witness, 1 who dwelt in the city of Jerusalem for a space of 
nine months, and examined the Holy Places by daily visits, 
told me, Adamnan, all that is hereafter to be written, as I 
sedulously asked him to tell me his experiences, which at 
first I wrote down on tablets as he dictated in a faithful 
and unimpeachable narrative, and now briefly inscribe upon 
parchment [membranes]. 8 

1 4 Judge,' B. % P. 12943, C. 

1 'This record is an important item in the history of writing, as 
showing the collateral and respective uses among the Irish of waxed 
tablets and membranes for literary purposes, towards the close of the 
seventh century' (Reeves, p. lviii.). Compare, pp. 5, 8; also, 'I 
noted down a brief but faithful abridgment of it in my tablets, which 
I will now endeavour to commit succinctly to my parchment' (Orderic, 
quoted by Dean Church, 'St. Anselm,' 1888, p. 55). In the first 
sentence, the word used for ' write ' means literally ' scratch,' denoting 
the action of the stylus in wax. 




2 



ARCULF 9 S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



BOOK I. 



I.— The Situation of Jerusalem, the Gates of 
the City, the Yearly Market, the Site of the 
Temple, the Oratory of the Saracens, the 
Great Houses. 

As to the situation of Jerusalem, we shall now write a 
few of the details that the sainted Arculf dictated to me, 
Adamnan ; but what is found in the books of others as to 
the position of that city, we shall pass over. In the great 
circuit of its walls, Arculf counted eighty-four towers an<f 
twice three gates, which are placed in the following ordei 
in the circuit of the city : The Gate of David, on the west 
side of Mount Sion, is reckoned first ; second, the Gate of 
the Place of the Fuller 1 ; third, the Gate of St. Stephen ; \ 

1 The reading of C. in this passage is : ' Second, the Gate of the | 
Fuller's Road ; third, the Gate of St. Stephen, where he was stoned ; 
fourth, the Gate of Benjamin ; fifth, a small gate, where one hastens 
down by steps to the Valley of Josaphat ; sixth, the Gate Thecuitis.' 
As to the position of these gates, see ' The City of Jerusalem/ p. 4. 
I. The Gate of David must have been close to the present Jaffa Gate. 
Somewhat to the north of it, a wall was built across the northern brow 
of Mount Sion to the edge of the cliff overhanging the causeway at. 
Wilson's Arch (cf. Bord. Pil., p. 59). There was no gate in this wall, or 
in the wall leading northwards from it. II. The ' Gate of the Place of 
the Fuller ' must have been to the west of the Damascus Gate ; 1 its name 
" Porta Villae [Viae C] Fullonis " being so named from "the Highway 
of the Fuller's Field " (Isaiah vii. 3). Villa is used in the sense of " field " 
by the Bordeaux Pilgrim, "ubi posit us est Joseph in villa quam dedit 
ei Jacob " (p. 18). It also means 41 farm," " country house," or M place," 
as in the "Villa Pampati," "Villa Job," etc., of the Bordeaux Pilgrim ; 
and the "Villa Publica" or "Place of Assembly" in the Campus 
Martius' [C. W. W.]. It is the * Postern of St. Lazarus' of the 
Crusaders. III. The 'Gate of St. Stephen* is the present Damascus 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 



3 



fourth, the Gate of Benjamin ; fifth, a portlet, that is a 
little gate, by which is the descent by steps to the Valley 
of Josaphat; sixth, the Gate Thecuitis. 

This then is the order round the intervals between those 
gates and towers : from the above-mentioned gate of 
David it turns towards the northern part of the circuit, 
and thence towards the east. But although six gates are 
counted in the walls, yet of those the entries of three 
gates are more commonly frequented ; one to the west, 
another to the north, a third to the east ; while that 
part of the walls with its interposed towers, which extends 
from the above-mentioned Gate of David across the 
northern brow of Mount Sion 1 (which overhangs the city 
from the south), as far as the face of that mountain which 
looks eastwards, where the rock is precipitous, is proved to 
have no gates. 

But this too, it seems to me, should not be passed over, 
which the sainted Arculf, formerly spoken of, told us as to 
the honour of that city in Christ : On the fifteenth day of the 
month of September yearly, an almost countless multitude 
of various nations is in the habit of gathering from all sides 
to Jerusalem for the purposes of commerce by mutual sale 
and purchase. Whence it necessarily happens that crowds 
of various nations stay in that hospitable city for some 
days, while the very great number of their camels and 

Gate, see Abbot Daniel, Appendix I. IV. The Gate of Benjamin is 
the Bab ez Zahrah, or Herod's Gate, east of the Damascus Gate (now 
closed). V. This Postern must have been near the Golden Gate 
(closed) ; it is alluded to by Antoninus, p. 14. VI. The Gate Thecuitis, 
by which is probably meant the Gate of Tekoa (the 'Thecua' of St. 
Paula, p. 10, now Khurbet Tekua), is now the Bab el Magharibeh, or 
the Dung Gate, on the south- wall towards the east The names of 
the gates have varied very greatly, an.d have been to a considerable 
extent interchanged at different periods. 

1 On the position of Sion, as accepted in the fourth and following 
centuries, see Bord. Pil., Appendix IV., pp. 56-62. 



2 




4 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



horses and asses, not to speak of mules and oxen, for their 
varied 1 baggage, strews the streets of the city here and 
there with the abominations of their excrements: the 
v smell of which brings no ordinary nuisance to the citizens 
and even makes walking difficult. Wonderful to say, 
on the night after the above-mentioned day of departure 
with the various beasts of burden of the crowds, an* 
immense abundance of rain falls from the clouds on that 
city, which washes all the abominable filths from the 
streets, and cleanses it from the uncleannesses. For the 
very situation of Jerusalem, beginning from the northern 
brow of Mount Sion, has been so disposed by its Founder, 
God, on a lofty 2 declivity, sloping down to the lower 
ground of the northern and eastern walls that that over- 
abundance of rain cannot settle at all in the streets, like 
stagnant water, but rushes down, like rivers, from the 
higher to the lower ground : and further this inundation of 
the waters of heaven, flowing through the eastern gates, 
and bearing with it all the filthy abominations, enters the 
Valley of Josaphat and swells the torrent of Cedron : 
and after having thus baptized Jerusalem, this over- 
abundance of rain always ceases. Hence therefore we 
must in no negligent manner note in what honour this 
chosen and glorious city is held in the sight of the Eternal 
Sire, 8 Who does not permit it to remain longer filthy, but' 
because of the honour of His Only Begotten cleanses it so 
quickly, since it has within the circuit of its walls the 
honoured sites of His sacred Cross and Resurrection. 

But in that renowned 4 place where once the Temple had 
been magnificently constructed, placed in the neighbour- 
hood of the wall from the east, the Saracens now frequent 
a four-sided house of prayer, which they have built rudely, 

1 1 Of the different carriers/ G. 8 ' Slight ' in MSS. except JL 

» * Judge and Sire,' V. f R. 4 4 Beautiful/ in some MSS. 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 5 

constructing it by raising boards and great beams on some 
remains of ruins: this house can, it is said, hold three 
thousand men at once. 

Arculf, when we asked him about the dwellings of that 
city, answered : 1 1 remember that I both saw and visited 
many buildings of that city, and that I very often observed 
a good many great houses 1 of stone through the whole of 
the large city, surrounded by walls, formed with marvellous 
skill.' But all these we must now, I think, pass over, with 
the exception of the structure of those buildings which 
have been marvellously built in the Holy Places, those 
namely of the Cross and the Resurrection : as to these we 
asked Arculf very carefully, especially as to the Sepulchre 
of the Lord and the Church constructed over it, the form 
of which Arculf himself depicted for me on a tablet 
covered with wax, 2 

II.— The Round Church built above the Sepul- 
chre of the Lord. 

And certainly this very great Church, 8 the whole of 
which is of stone, was formed of marvellous roundness in 
every part, rising up from the foundations in three walls, 
which have one roof at a lofty elevation, 4 having a broad 
pathway between each wall and the next ; there are also 
three altars in three dexterously formed places of the 
middle wall. 6 This round and very large church, with 
the above-mentioned altars, looking one to the south, 
another to the north, a third towards the west, is supported 

1 ' Domos grandes.' The phrase ' domus magna,' or ' major/ is used 
by Adamnan in his 'Life of St. Columba' in the sense of 'monastery.' 
(Reeves, p. 216 n.) 

1 Compare p. 1. 

• For Professor Willis' translation, see Appendix. 

* 'Which . . . elevation' in L. only. 
* ' In the middle of the wall,' G. 




6 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



by twelve stone columns of marvellous size. It has twice 
four gates, that is four entrances, through three firmly built 
walls which break upon the pathways in a straight line, of 
which four means of exit look to the north-east 1 (which is 
also called the 'cecias* wind), while the other four look to 
the south-east. 

III.— The Form of the Sepulchre itself and its 
Little Cabin. 

In the middle of the interior of this round house is a 
round cabin (tugurium) 2 cut out in one and the same rock, 
in which thrice 3 three men can pray standing ; and from the 
head of a man of ordinary stature as he stands, up to the 
arch of that small house, a foot and a half is measured, 
upwards. The entrance of this little cabin looks to the east, 
and the whole outside is covered with choice marble, while 
its highest point is adorned with gold, and supports a golden 
cross of no small size. In the northern part of this cabin 
is the Sepulchre of the Lord, cut out in the same rock in 
the inside, but the pavement of the cabin is lower than 
the place of the Sepulchre; for from its pavement up to the 

1 VultumuSy variously explained as the north-east and as the south- 
east wind ; here (and in Bede, p. 69) the former. Cecias is the Greek 
Kauciac, the north-east wind. (The MSS. give the various readings 
* calcias/ ' calceas,' ' hetias,' ' caluar.') 

* The words * tugurium/ ' tuguriolum,' used here interchangeably (see 
p. xvii.), are of frequent occurrence in Adamnan's Life of St. Columba, 
used specially of the abbot's domus, or hospitium, or hospitiolum, at 
some distance from the huts of wattles or of wood in which the other 
members of the community lived ; it was built of wood with joists, 
and stood on an eminence ; here the founder sat and wrote, or read. 
The other huts are often spoken of as cellula, the word used in de- 
scribing the monastery on Mount Tabor, p. 46. The form tegurium 
of some MSS. is the Irish orthography (Reeves, pp. 360, 455). It is 
difficult to find a suitable rendering for the word here. At Sir Charles 
Wilson's suggestion, Professor Willis' translation, -cabin^ has been 
adopted. 8 ' Three,' B., Bern., G., C 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY A DAMN AN. 



7 



edge of the side of the Sepulchre a measure 1 of about three 
palms is reckoned. So Arculf, who used often to visit the 
Sepulchre of the Lord and measured it most accurately, told 
me. 

Here we must refer to the difference of names between 
the Tomb and the Sepulchre ; for that round cabin 
which we have often mentioned, the Evangelists called by 
another name, the Tomb : they speak of the stone rolled to 
its mouth, and rolled back from its mouth, when the Lord 
rose. That place in the cabin is properly called the 
Sepulchre, which is in the northern side of the Tomb, in which 
the body of the Lord, when buried, rested, rolled in the 
linen cloths : the length of which Arculf measured with his 
own hand and found to be seven feet. Now this Sepulchre 
is not, as some think, double, having a projection left from 
the solid rock, parting and separating the two legs and the 
; two thighs, but is wholly single, affording a bed capable of 
holding a man lying on his back from his head even to his 
soles. It is in the manner of a cave, having its opening at 
the side, and opposite 2 the south part of the sepulchral 
chamber. The low roof is artificially wrought above it. In 
the Sepulchre there are further twelve lamps according to 
the number 3 of the twelve Apostles, always burning day 
and night, four of which are placed down below in the 
lowest part of the sepulchral bed, while the other twice 
four are placed higher above its edge on the right hand ; 
they shine brightly, being nourished with oil. 

But it seems that this also should be noted, that the 
Mausoleum or Sepulchre of the Saviour (that is, the often* 

1 1 From knee ' or ' thumb to car,' B. 9 V. C. reads, 4 From the pave- 
ment to the Sepulchre of the Lord where He lay, is a height of four 
fingers.' 

1 * A cave having in the entrance an altar opposite/- £. 
9 ' Rule,' ' names/ in some MSS. 



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8 



ARCULF' S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



mentioned cabin), may rightly be called a Grot or Cave, 
concerning which, that is to say, concerning our Lord Jesus 
Christ being buried in it, the prophet prophesied : ' He shall 
dwell in a most lofty cave of a most strong rock.' 1 And 
a little after, to gladden the Apostles, there is inserted 
about the Resurrection of the Lord : 4 Ye shall seethe King 
with glory.' 2 

The frontispiece shows, accordingly, the form of the 
above-named church with the round little cabin placed 
in its centre, in the northern side of which is the Sepulchre 
of the Lord, and also the forms of the other three churches 
about which we shall speak below. 

We have drawn these figures of the four churches accord- 
ing to the model which, as has been said above, the sainted 
Arculf drew on a waxed tablet, 8 not that a likeness of then} 
can be given in a drawing, but in order that the Tomb of 
the Lord, be it in however poor a representation, may be 
shown placed in the middle of the round church, and that 
the church more properly belonging to this, or the one 
placed further off, may be made clear. 

IV.— The Stone that was rolled to the Mouth 
of the Tomb, which the Angel of the Lord, 
descending from heaven after hls resur- 
rection, rolled back ; the chapel, and the 
Sepulchre. 

But among these things, it seems that one ought to tell 
briefly about the stone, mentioned above, which was rolled 
to the mouth of the Tomb of the Lord, after the burial of 
the crucified Lord slain 4 by many men : which, Arculf 
relates, was broken and divided into two parts, the smaller 
of which, rough hewn with tools, is seen placed as a square 

1 Isaiah xxxiii. 16. 9 Ibid. v. 17. 

• See page 1. * « Betrayed ' in MSS. except L. 



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HOL Y PLACES, WRITTEN B Y A DA Af NAN. 



9 



altar in the round church, described above, before the 
mouth of that often-mentioned cabin, that is, the Lord's 
Tomb ; while the larger part of that stone, equally hewn 
around, stands fixed in the eastern part of that church as 
another four-sided altar under linen cloths. 

As to the colours of that rock, in which that often- 
mentioned chapel was hollowed out by the tools of hewers, 
which has, in its northern side, the Sepulchre of the Lord 
cut out of one and the same rock in which is also the 
Tomb, that is, the cabin, Arculf when questioned by 
r e, said : That Cabin of the Lord's Tomb is in no way 
ornamented on the inside, and shows even to this day over 
all its surface the traces of the tools, which the hewers or 
excavators used in their work : the colour of that rock both 
of the Tomb and of the Sepulchre is not one, but two 
colours seem to have been intermingled, namely red and 
white, whence also that rock appears two-coloured. But 
/ as to these points let what has been said suffice. 

V. — The Church of St. Mary which adjoins the 

Round Church. 

As to the buildings of the holy places, some few 
details must be added. The four-sided Church of St. Mary, 
the mother of the Lord, is adjoined on the right side by 
that round church which has been so often mentioned 
above, and which is also called the Anastasis, that is the 
Resurrection, because it was built on the spot of the Lord's 
Resurrection. 

VI. — The Church that is built on the Site of 

Calvary. 

Another very large church, looking eastwards, has been* 
built on that place which, in Hebrew, is called Golgotha, 1 
1 C. adds, 'but in Latin, Mount Calvary.' 



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lo 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



high up in which a great circular chandelier of brass with 
lamps is hung by ropes, below which has been set up a 
great cross of silver, fixed in the same spot where once 
stood fixed the wooden Cross, on which suffered the Saviour 
of the human race. 

In the same church a cave has been cut out in the rock 
below the site of the Cross of the Lord, where sacrifice is 
offered on an altar for the souls of certain specially honoured 
persons whose bodies are meanwhile placed lying in a court 1 
before the gate of that Church of Golgotha, until the holy 
mysteries on their behalf are finished. 

VII. — The Basilica which Constantine built close 

TO THE ABOVE-NAMED CHURCH ON THE SPOT 
WHERE THE CROSS OF THE LORD, WHICH HAD 
BEEN BURIED IN RUINS, WAS FOUND, WHEN AFTER 
MANY CENTURIES THE EARTH WAS DUG UP. 

This four-sided church, built on the site of Calvary, is 
adjoined on the east by the neighbouring stone Basilica, 
constructed with great reverence by King Constantine 
which is also called the Martyrium, 2 built, as is said, on 
that spot where the Cross of the Lord, which had been 
hidden away under the earth, was found with the other 
two crosses of the robbers, after a period of two hundred and 
thirty-three years, by the permission of the Lord Himself. 

VIII.— The Site of the Altar of Abraham. 

Between these two churches lies that illustrious place 
where the patriarch Abraham built an altar, 8 laid on it the 
1 1 Platca,' see next page, note i. 

* ' Monastery' in some MSS. 4 Arculf appears to have applied to 
the Basilica the name of " The Martyrium of the Resurrection," given 
by Eusebius to the whole group of Constantine's buildings,' C. IV. IV. 

8 On 'The Altar of Abraham,' see Abbot Daniel, Appendix II., 
p.96. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. n 

pile of wood, and seized the drawn sword to offer in 
sacrifice his own son, Isaac : where is now a wooden table 
of considerable size on which the alms of the poor are 
offered by the people. This also the sainted Arculf added, 
as I enquired of him more diligently : Between the Anastasis, 
that is the round church we have often mentioned above, 
and the Basilica of Constantine, lies a small square extend- 
ing to the Church of Golgotha, where lamps burn always by 
day and night 1 

IX.— The Recess situated between the Church of 
Calvary and the Basilica of Constantine, in 
which are kept the cup of the lord and the 
Sponge from which, as He hung on the Tree, 
He drank Vinegar and Wine. 

Between that Basilica of Golgotha and the Martyriuro 2 
there is a recess (exedra) 8 in which is the Cup of the 
Lord, which He blessed and gave with His own hand to 
the Apostles in the supper on the day before He suffered, 
as He and they sat at meat with one another ; the cup is 

silver, holding the measure of a French quart, 4 and has 
:wo little handles placed on it, one on each side. In this 
;up also is the sponge which those who were crucifying 
;he Lord filled with vinegar and, putting it on hyssop, offered 

1 C. reads, ' Between these churches is a small square covered with 
marble, extending as far as the Basilica of Constantine and the Church 
of Golgotha, which is .extremely beautiful/ The word here rendered 
* small square ' is plateola, ' a green ' or ' a court * within the enclosure 
of a Scotic monastery, surrounding or beside which were the lodgings 
of the community (Reeves, p. 360). 

* 'Testimony/ B. y P. 12943, 

* 'Exedra' is a small chamber, or chapel, attached to the side of a 
church; the 'cubiculum' or 'separatum conclave' of the Scotic 
monastery. The Greek word (i&ftpa) is of frequent occurrence in 
Josephus in reference to the Temple (Reeves, pp. 224, 444). 

4 Sextarius, the sixth part of a congius, or gallon. 



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12 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



to His mouth. From the same cup, as is said, the Lord 
drank after His Resurrection, as He sat at meat with the 
apostles. The sainted Arculf saw it and touched it with 
his own hand, and kissed it through the opening of the 
perforated cover of the case within which it is concealed : 
indeed, the whole people of the city resort greatly to this 
cup with immense veneration. 

X.— The Spear of the Soldier with which he 



Arculf also saw that spear of the soldier with which he 
smote through the side of the Lord as He hung on the Cross. 
The spear is fixed in a wooden cross in the portico of the 
Basilica of Constantine, its shaft being broken into two 
parts : and this also the whole city of Jerusalem resorts to, 
kisses, and venerates. 

XL— The Napkin with which the Head of the 
Lord was covered in the Sepulchre. 1 

As to the sacred napkin which was placed upon the head 2 
of the Lord in the Sepulchre, we learn from the narrative 
of the sainted Arculf, who inspected it with his own eyes. # 

The whole people of Jerusalem bear witness to the truth 
of the narrative we now write. For on the testimony of 
several faithful citizens of Jerusalem, the sainted Arculf 
learned this statement which they very often repeated to him 
as he listened attentively : A certain trustworthy believing 
Jew, immediately after the Resurrection of the Lord, stole 
from His Sepulchre the sacred linen cloth and hid it in his 
house for many days; but, by the favour of the Lord Himself, 

it was found after the lapse of many years, and was brought 

* 

1 C. places this chapter at the end of the first Book. 
* C. adds, c and the body.' 



PIERCED THE SIDE OF THE LORD. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 13 



to the notice of the whole people about three years 1 before 
[this statement was made to Arculf ].* That happy, faithful 
thief, when at the point of death/ sent for his two sons, and, 
showing them the Lord's napkin, which he had at first 
abstracted furtively, offered it to them, saying : ' My boys, 
the choice is now given to you. Therefore let each of you 
say which he rather wishes to choose, so that I may know 
without doubt to which of you, according to his own 
choice, I shall bequeathe all the substance I have, and 
to which only this sacred napkin of the Lord.' On 
hearing this, the one who wished to obtain all his sire's 
wealth, received it from his father, according to a promise 
made to him under the will. Marvellous to say, from that 
day all his riches and all his patrimony, on account of 
which he sold the Lord's napkin, began to decrease, and all 
fhat he had was lost by various misfortunes and came to 
pothing. While the other blessed son of the above-named 
blessed thief, who chose the Lord's napkin in preference to 
all his patrimony, from the day when he received it from 
the hand of his dying sire, became, by the gift of God, 
nore and more rich in earthly substance, and was by no 
neans deprived of heavenly treasure. And thus this napkin 
■>( the Lord was faithfully handed down as an heirloom 
by the successive heirs of this thrice blessed man to their 
believing sons in regular succession, even to the fifth 
generation. But many years having now passed, believing 
heirs of that kindred failed, after the fifth generation, and 
the sacred linen cloth came into the hands of unbelieving 

1 'Three hundred' is suggested by various editors. 

* C. reads, instead of next three sentences, ' And when he was at the 
point of death, he said to his two sons : My sons, who of you would 
wish faithfully to receive the napkin of the Lord ? On hearing this, 
the one who had received his sire's wealth according to his will, 
received the napkin that has been spoken of, and sold it to his own 
brother.' 




ARCULJTS NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



Jews, who, while unworthy of such an office, yet embraced 
it honourably and, by the gift of the Divine bounty, were 
greatly enriched with very diverse riches. But an accurate 
narrative about the Lord's napkin having spread among the 
people, the believing Jews began to contend bravely with 
the unbelieving Jews about the sacred linen cloth, desiring 
with all their might to obtain possession of it, and the strife 
that arose divided the common people of Jerusalem into two 
parties, the faithful believers and the faithless unbelievers. 

Upon this, Mavias, 1 the King of the Saracens, was 
appealed to by both parties to adjudicate between them, and 
he said to the unbelieving Jews who were persistently re- 
taining the Lord's napkin : 2 'Give the sacred linen cloth 
which you have into my hand.' In obedience to the king's 
command, they bring it from its casket and place it in 
his bosom. Receiving it with great reverence, the king 
ordered a great fire to be made in the square before all the 
people, and while it was burning fiercely, he rose, and 
going up to the fire, addressed both contending parties ir 
a loud voice : ' Now let Christ, the Saviour of the world 
who suffered for the human race, upon whose head thi 
napkin, which I now hold in my bosom, and as to whic 
you are now contending, was placed in the Sepulchre, judg. 
between you by the flame of fir^, so that you may knov 
to which of these two contending hosts this great gift ma) 
most worthily be entrusted/ Saying this, he threw the 
sacred napkin of the Lord into the flames, but the fire 
could in no way touch it, for, rising whole and untouched 
from the fire, it began to fly on high, like a bird with out- 

1 Z., ' Mavius f others, ' Majuvias,' *Navias C, 'Nauvias.' Muavia, 
the founder of the Omeyyad dynasty, Caliph of Syria, A.D. 658 ; sole 
Caliph, 661 ; died, 68a 

* ' In the sight of the Christian Jews who were present,' K, R^ 
P. 12943. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY A DA Af NAN 15 

spread wings, and looking down from a great height on the 
two contending parties, placed opposite one another as if 
they were two armies in battle array, it flew round in 
mid air for some moments , then slowly descending, under 
the guidance of God, it inclined towards the party of the 
Christians, who meanwhile prayed earnestly to Christ, the 
Judge, and finally it settled in their bosom. Raising their 
hands to heaven, and bending the knee with great gladness, 
they give thanks to God and receive the Lord's napkin 
with great honour, a gift to be venerated as sent to them 
from heaven ; they render praises in their hymns to Christ, 
who gave it, and they cover it up in another linen cloth 
and put it away in a casket of the church. 

Our brother Arculf saw it one day taken out of the 
casket, and amid the multitude of the people that kissed it, 
he himself kissed it in an assembly of the church; it 
/measures about eight feet 1 in length. 8 As to it let what has 
been said suffice. 
1 ' Cubits 1 in some MSS. 

» On the margin of C. there is added in the handwriting of the 
ifteenth century : ' But afterwards it came into the possession of the 
Bishop of Anicia, who had made a voyage in the districts beyond the 
sea ; and he, dying there, gave it to one who was his priest. This 
priest also died as he was crossing the sea, leaving the precious gift to 
a cleric who served him. He, when he was in the country of Petragora, 
where he was born, placed (he napkin of the Lord in a church which 
was recommended to him, near Caduinum. And not long after he 
had left the church one day, a fire broke out in a [the nearest] farm 
and also in that church, and burned whatever it found ; but it did not 
touch the casket in which the napkin was preserved, and which was 
near the altar. On hearing this, some of the brothers, who were lately 
staying at Caduinum, hastened thither, and when they had found the 
casket, they broke it by force, and, taking the " barletum," where the 
napkin of the Lord was, they brought it with them very quickly and 
deposited it in their own monastery about the year of the Lord 15 12. 
But the cleric, not finding the treasure, went on to Caduinum, and 
when he could not recover it, he put on the monk's habit, and as long 
as he lived, he guarded there what he had formerly possessed.' 




16 ARCULF'S NARRA T1VE ABOUT THE 



XII. — Another Sacred Linen Cloth which, as is 
said, St. Mary the Virgin, the Mother of the 
Lord, wove. 

Arculf saw also in that city of Jerusalem another linen 
cloth of larger size, which, as is said, St. Mary wove, and 
which, on that account, is held in great reverence in the 
Church and by all the people. In this linen cloth the 
forms of the twelve Apostles are woven, and the likeness 
of the Lord Himself i$ figured ; one side of the linen cloth 
is of red colour, while the opposite side is green. 1 

XIII. — The Lofty Column situated on the Spot 
where a Dead Young Man came to Life again, 
when the Cross of the Lord was placed on 
him; and the middle of the world. 

We must speak briefly about a very lofty column, stand- 
ing in the middle of the city, which meets one coming 
from the sacred places northwards. This column is set up 
on that spot where a dead young man came to life agai? 
when the Cross of the Lord was placed on him, and mar 
vellously in the summer solstice at mid-day, when the sur 
comes to the centre of the heaven, it casts no shadow ; for 
when the solstice is passed, which is the 24th 2 of June, after 
three days, as the day gradually lessens, it first casts a 
short shadow, then a longer one as the days pass. Thus 
this column, which the brightness of the sun in the summer 
solstice at mid-day, as it stands in the centre of the 
heaven, 8 shining straight down from above, shines upon all 
round from every quarter, proves that the city of Jerusalem 
is situated in the middle of the earth. Whence also the 
Psalmist, prophesying on account of the sacred sites of the 

1 4 Of the colour of green herbs/ B. % P. 12943. 

1 « 23rd,' JL » • Pole,' B. % P. 12943, R 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 17 



Passion and the Resurrection which are contained within' 
that iElia, sings : ' But God, our King, before the ages has 
wrought salvation in the midst of the earth/ 1 that is, in 
Jerusalem, which, being in the middle, is also called the 
navel of the earth. 1 

XIV.— The Church of St. Mary built in the 
Valley of Josaphat, in which is her Tomb. 

That sedulous visitor of the Holy Places, the sainted 
Arculf, visited the Church oC St. Mary, 8 in the Valley of 
Josaphat, which is built in two stories, the lower of these 
being a round structure, under a marvellous stone roof, 
with an altar in its eastern part, while on the right side of 
it is the empty stone sepulchre of St. Mary, in which for 
a time she rested after her burial* But how or when or 
by whom her sacred body was raised from that sepulchre, 
ofr where it awaits the Resurrection, it is said that no 
one knows certainly. 6 Those who enter this lower round 
Church of St. Mary see inserted, on the right of the wall, 
ktol stone above which, on the night when He was betrayed 
by Judas into the hands of sinful men, the Lord prayed in 
the field of Gethsemane, on bended knees, before the hour 
of His betrayal : and in this rock are seen the marks of 
His two knees, as if they had been very deeply impressed 
in the softest wax. Thus we were informed by our 
brother, the sainted Arculf, the visitor of the holy places, 
who with his own eyes saw what we describe. In the 
upper Church of St. Mary, which is also round, there are 
shown to be four altars. 

1 Psalm lxxiv. 12. 

1 Compare Abbot Daniel, pp. 13, 96 ; Quarterly Statement, October, 
1888, pp. 260 ff. 

* Compare Ant. Mar., p. 14 ; Abbot Daniel, p. 23 ; Mukaddasi, p. 49. 
4 B. adds, ' and belongs to the saints.' 
* 4 As Jerome relates/ C, P. 12943. 



2 




18 ARCULFS NARRA TIVE ABO UT THE 



XV.— The Tower of Josaphat built in the same 



In the same valley that has been mentioned above, not 
far from the Church of St Mary, is shown the Tower of 
Josaphat, in which his sepulchre is seen. 

XVI.— The Tombs of Simeon and Joseph. 

This 1 little tower is joined on the right hand by a stone 
house, cut out of the rock and separated from the Mount 
of Olivet, within which are shown two sepulchres cut out 
with iron tools, destitute of ornament. One of these is 
that of Simeon, the just man, who, having embraced the 
little Infant, the Lord Jesus, in the Temple in both his 
hands, prophesied about Him. The other is that of Joseplh, 
the spouse of St. Mary, and the upbringer of the Lord Jesus. 

XVII.— The Cave in the Rock of the Mount o> 
Olivet, across the Valley of Josaphat, n 
which are Four Tables and two Wells. 2 

' In the side of the Mount of Olivet is a cave, not f 
from the Church of St. Mary, placed on the higher grount 
across the Valley of Josaphat, having in it two very dee 
wells, one of which descends to a great depth under tb 
mountain, 8 while the other is in the pavement of the cav< 
its immense cavity being, as is said, directed in a straight 
course, descending into the depth ; these * two wells are 
always closed. In the same cave are four stone tables, of 

1 -C. omits XV. and reads, 1 Thence, not far from the Church of St. 
Mary, in which her sepulchre is seen, in that same Valley of Josaphat, 
is a little tower of stone, which is joined on its right side [?], cut out 
of the rock,' etc. 

* 4 The cave of the two wells,' JL, P. 15048. 

4 G.; other MSS. read, Ms extended to a great distance at a pro- 
found depth.' C. has this reading, but adds, 'under the mountain. 1 



Valley. 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADA Af NAN. 19 



which the one nearest the entrance of the cave on the 
inside is that of our Lord Jesus Christ, His seat beyond 
doubt adjoining His little table ; here He was in the habit 
sometimes of sitting at meat with His twelve Apostles, 
who at the same time sat at the other tables in the same 
place. The closed mouth of the well, referred to above as 
being in the pavement of the cave, is shown to belong 
especially to the tables of the Apostles. The little door- 
way of this cave is closed by a wooden gate, as the sainted 
Arculf, who so often visited that cave of the Lord, relates. 

XVIII. — The Gate of David and the Place where 
Judas Iscarioth hanged himself by a Rope. 

The Gate of David adjoins a slight rising of Mount Sion 
oh the west. Those going out of the city through it, leav- 
ing the Gate and Mount Sion next their left hand, come to 
& stone bridge, 1 directed for some distance in a straight line 
across the valley to the south, raised on arches, 2 close to the 
middle of which, on the west side, is the spot where Judas 
of Iscarioth, driven by despair, hanged himself by a rope. 8 
There is still shown here to this day a fig-tree of large 
size, from the top of which, as is said, Judas hung in a 
halter, as Juvencus* a versifying presbyter, has sung : 

' From fig-tree top he snatched a shapeless death.' 
1 ' Fountain ' in some MSS. 

* C. adds, * It is through this gate that one leaves Jerusalem for the 
city of Samuel, which is called Ramatha, and for Cesarea of Palestine, 
as well as for Gaza/ 

* Compare Bord. Pil., p. 24, Ant, Mar., p. 15. The spot alluded to 
must be in Wady Rababeh. 

4 C. Vettius Aquilinus Juvencus, a Spaniard by birth, the author of 
a Historica Evangelica, * an hexameter poem on our Lord's life, based 
upon the Gospels,' * the first Christian epic* (See Smith's Diet, of 
Christian Biog., vol. Hi., pp. 598 f.) 



2 



2 




2o ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



XIX.— The Form of the Great Basilica built on 
Mount Sion, and the Situation of that 
Mountain. 

Mention was made of Mount Sion a little above, and 
here a short and succinct notice must be inserted of a 
great Basilica constructed there, a drawing of which is 
given here : 



avth&JpoitLu 



Zl wUeh&xphm, 



PLAN OF THE BASILICA ON MOUNT SION, SHOWING THE SITES ON 
THE SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAIN. 

Here is shown the rock upon which Stephen, bein§ 
stoned without the city, fell asleep. Beyond the grea 
church described above, which embraces within its wa' 
such holy places, there stands another memorable rock, i! 
the west side of that on which, as is said, Stephen was stonea 
This Apostolical Chijrch, as is said above, was built o 
stone on a level surface in the higher ground of Mount Sion 

1 L.j- other MSS. read, 'the Lord was scourged. 1 

* C. reads for XIX., 'After this the sainted Arculf writes of tha. 
place where the Lord supped with His disciples, and where the Holy 
Spirit descended upon the Apostles on the holy day of Pentecost, 
where he says that a great church has been constructed on the top of 
Mount Sion, which is called the Apostles' Church. There is seen there 
the column where the Lord was scourged, and there is also shown 
there the rock on which St Stephen was stoned ; to the west there is 
another church, where the Lord was tried in the Pretorium of Pilate. 
Now we shall speak of the Mount of Olivet/ chap. 22. As to the tradi- 
tions connected with the scenes of St. Stephen's martyrdom, burial, 
etc., see Abbot Danie), Appendix I., pp. 83-90 As to the Church, 
see ibid., pp. 36, 37. 



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21 



XX. — The Little Field called in Hebrew Akel- 

DEMAC 

This small field, 1 which is situated towards the southern 
quarter of Mount Sion, was often visited by our Arculf ; it 
has a stone boundary- wall, and in it a considerable number 
of pilgrims 2 are very carefully interred, while others are 
left unburied very carelessly, merely covered with rags or 
skins, and so, lying on the ground, putrefy. 

XXI. — The Rough and Rocky Ground that extends 
far and wide, from jerusalem to the clty of 
Samuel, and to Cesarea of Palestine towards 
the West. 

From iElia northwards to the City of Samuel, which is 
called Armathem, 8 the ground is rocky and rough, in which, 
however, there are intervening spaces, thorny valleys also 
iying up to the Tanitic region. Another description of 
country is seen from the above-named ;Elia and Mount Sion 
westwards extending to Cesarea of Palestine ; for though 
+here may be at intervals some narrow, small, rough places, 
et for the most part wider downs are met with, enlivened 
by olive groves scattered over them. 

XXII. — The Mount of Olivet, its Height, and the 

Character of its Soil. 

Other kinds of trees than the vine and the olive can, as 
Arculf relates, rarely be found on the Mount of Olivet, 
while very fine crops of corn and barley are raised on it. 

1 Compare, Ant. Mar., p. 22 ; Abbot Daniel, p. 38 ; City of 
Jerusalem, p. 20. 

1 'Peregrinus* in Adamnan signifies ' pilgrim' (Reeves, Glossary). 
Cf. Todd's 4 St. Patrick/ p. 261. 

* c Armachim,' 4 Ramathas,' in some MSS. The present Nebi 
Samwil, on the right of the old northerly road from Jaffa to Jerusalem 



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ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



For the character of that soil is shown not to be adapted 
for trees, but for grass and flowers. Its height, moreover, 
seems to be equal to that of Mount Sion, 1 although Mount 
Sion seems small and narrow when compared to the Mount 
of Olivet as regards its geometrical dimensions — namely, 
breadth and length. In the middle, between these two 
mountains, iies the Valley of Josaphat, of which we 
spoke above, stretching from north to south. 

XXIII.— The Place of the Ascension of the Lord 
and the Church built on it 

On the whole Mount of Olivet there seems to be no spot 
higher than that from which the Lord is said to have 
ascended into the heavens, where there stands a great 
round church, having in its circuit three vaulted porticoes' 
covered over above. The interior of the church, without; 
roof or vault, lies open to heaven under the open air, 
having in its eastern side an altar protected under a narrow 
covering. So that in this way the interior has no vault, 2 ir 
order that from the place where the Divine footprints ar 
last seen, 8 when the Lord was carried up into heaven in i 
cloud, the way may be always open and free to the eyes ot 
those who pray towards heaven. 4 

For when this basilica, of which I have now made 
slight mention, was building, that place of the footprints 
of the Lord, as we find written elsewhere, could not be 

1 The summit of Mount Olivet is 2,693 feet above the sea-level ; that 
of Mount Sion 2,550 feet. 
* G. t other MSS. read, ' placed over it.' Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 25. 
9 L. 9 other MSS. read, Mast stood.' 

4 C.j having given this paragraph in an abbreviated form, adds only, 
' In the pavement whence He ascended, His sacred footprints are 
seen to have been impressed.' The footprint of Christ is still shown 
on Mount Olive't, ' City of Jerusalem/ p. 40. - 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 



23 



enclosed under the covering 1 with the rest of the buildings. 
Whatever was applied, the unaccustomed earth, refusing to 
receive anything human, cast back into the face of those 
who brought it And, moreover, the mark of the dust that 
was trodden by the Lord is so lasting that the impression 
of the footsteps may be perceived ; and although the faith 
of such as gather daily at the spot snatches away some of 
what was trodden by the Lord, yet the area perceives no 
loss, and the ground still retains that same appearance of 
being marked by the impress of footsteps. 

Further, as the sainted Arculf, who carefully visited this 
spot, relates, a brass hollow cylinder of large circumference, 
flattened on the top, has been placed here, its height 
being shown by measurement to reach one's neck. 2 In the 
centre of it is an opening of some size, through which the 
uncovered marks of the feet of the Lord are plainly and 
(jflearly seen from above, impressed in the dust. In that 
cylinder there is, in the western side, as it were, a door ; so 
that any entering by it can easily approach the place of 
+ he sacred dust, and through the open hole in the wheel 

ay take up in their outstretched hands some particles of 
le sacred dust. 

Thus the narrative of our Arculf as to the footprints of 
.he Lord quite accords with the writings of others — to the 
effect that they could not be covered in any way, whether 
by the roof of the house or by any special lower and closer 
covering ; so that they can always be seen by all that enter, 
and the marks of the feet of the Lord can be clearly seen 
depicted in the dust of that place. For these footprints of 
the Lord are lighted by the brightness of an immense lamp 
hanging on pulleys above that cylinder in the church, and 
burning day and night. 
Further in the western side of the round church we have 
1 * Pavement * in MSS. * 1 Head ■ in some MSS. 




24 ARO/LF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



mentioned above, twice four windows have been formed 
high up with glazed shutters, and in these windows there 
burn as many lamps placed opposite them, within and close 
to them. These lamps hang in chains, and are so placed 
that each lamp may hang neither higher nor lower, but 
may be seen, as it were, fixed to its own window, opposite 
and close to which it is specially seen. The brightness of 
these lamps is so great 1 that, as their light is copiously poured 
through the glass from the summit of the Mountain of 
Olivet, not only is the part of the mountain nearest the 
round 2 basilica to the west illuminated, but also the lofty 
path which rises by steps up to the city of Jerusalem from 
the Valley of Josaphat, is clearly illuminated in a wonderful 
manner, even on dark nights ; while the greater part of the 
city that lies nearest at hand on the opposite side is simi- 
larly illuminated by the same brightness. The effect of 
this brilliant and admirable coruscation of the -eight great 
lamps shining by night from the holy mountain and fron 
the site of the Lord's ascension, as Arculf related, is t» 
pour into the hearts of the believing onlookers a great 
eagerness 8 of the Divine love, and to strike the mind wi 
a certain fear along with vast inward compunction. 

This also Arculf related to me about the same roun 
church : That on the anniversary of the Lord's Ascension 
at mid-day, after the solemnities of the Mass have been 
celebrated in that basilica, a most violent tempest of wind 
comes on regularly every year, so that no one can stand or 
sit in that church or in the neighbouring places, but all lie 
prostrate in prayer with their faces in the ground until that 
terrible tempest has passed. 

The result of this terrific blast is that that part of the house 
cannot be vaulted over ; so that above the spot where the 

1 Compare St. Paula, p. 10. * « Stone' in some MSS. 

* V. 9 R^ add, 'or clearness.' 



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footsteps of the Lord are impressed and are clearly shown, 
within the opening in the centre of the above-named 
cylinder, the way always appears open to heaven. For the 
blast of the above-mentioned wind destroyed, in accordance 
with the Divine will, whatever materials had been gathered 
for preparing a vault above it, if any human art made the 
attempt. 

This account of this dreadful storm was given to us by 
the sainted Arculf, who was himself present in that Church 
of Mount Olivet at the very hour of the day of the Lord's 
Ascension when that fierce storm arose. 

A drawing of this round church is shown below, however 
unworthily it may have been drawn ; while the form of the 
brass cylinder is also shown placed in the middle of the 
church. 




PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE ASCENSION. 



This also we learned from the narrative of the sainted 
Arculf : That in that round church, besides the usual light 
of the eight lamps mentioned above as shining within the 
church by night, there are usually added on the night of 
the Lord's Ascension almost innumerable other lamps, 
which by their terrible and admirable brightness, poured 



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26 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



abundantly through the glass of the windows, not only 
illuminate the Mount of Olivet, but make it seem to be 
wholly on fire ; while the whole city and the places in the 
neighbourhood are also lit up. 

XXIV.— The Sepulchre of Lazarus and the Church 

BUILT ABOVE IT, AND THE ADJOINING MONASTERY. 

Arculf, the visitor of the above-mentioned holy places, 
visited a little plain at Bethany, surrounded by a great 
wood of olives, where there are a great monastery and a 
great basilica built over the cave from which the Lord 
recalled Lazarus to life after he had been dead four 
days. 

XXV.— Another Church built to the Right of 



As to another more celebrated church built towards t le 
southern side of Bethany, on that spot of the Mount r 
Olivet where the Lord is said to have addressed the di 
ciples, I think that we must write briefly. 

Hence we must carefully inquire what address and 
what time or to what special individuals of His discip 
the Lord spoke. 1 These three questions, if we will op 
the writings of the three Evangelists, Matthew, Mark, ai 
Luke, will be clearly answered, for the Evangelists speak 
the character of the address in complete narmony with on. 
another. As to the place of that meeting, no one can have 
any doubt, or as to the address' and the place, who will 
read Matthew speaking about the Lord : 'And as He sat 
upon the Mount of Olivet, the disciples came to Him pri- , 
vately, saying, Tell us, when shall these things be ? and what 

1 C reads, 'And although three Evangelists describe His address, 
which He then gave to the disciples,, yet Matthew writes about it more 
specially : " And as He sat," etc.' 



Bethany. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 27 



shall be the sign of Thy coming and of the consummation of 
the age?' (St. Matt. xxiv. 3): As to the persons who asked 
Him, Matthew has kept silence ; but Mark has not, and he 
tells us : 1 Peter and James and John and Andrew asked 
Him privately' (St. Mark xiii. 3) — in reply to whose question 
He delivered the address referred to by the three Evan- 
gelists we have mentioned above, of which the character is 
shown in His words : 'Take heed lest any man deceive you. 
For many shall come in My name, saying, I am Christ ' (St 
Mark xiii. 5, 6) and the rest that follows as to the last times 
and the consummation of the age, which Matthew records at 
^reat length, down to the place where the same Evangelist 
y shows the time of this lengthened address, as he 
.ions the words of the Lord : s And it came to pass, 
n Jesus had finished all these sayings, He said to His 
iples, Ye know that after two days is the Passover, and 
Son of Man shall be betrayed to be crucified/ etc. 
:. Matt xxvi. 1, 2). It is thus shown distinctly that 
was on the fourth day of the week, when two days 
ained to the first day of the Unleavened Bread, which 
illed the Passover, that the Lord delivered the length- 
j address mentioned above, in answer to the question of 
four above-named disciples. On the place where the 
ress was given a church was founded in its memory, 
ich is held in great honour. 

Let it suffice to have thus far described the holy places 
of the city of Jerusalem, and Mount Sion, and the Mount 
of Olivet, and the Valley of Josaphat, which lies between 
these mountains, in accordance with the accurate narrative 
of the sainted Arculf, the visitor of those places. 




28 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



BOOK II. 



I. — The Situation of 1 Bethlehem. 

In the beginning of this Second Book we shall briefly 
write a few notes about the situation of the city of Beth- 
lehem, 2 which our Saviour thought worthy to be the place 
where He should be born of the Holy Virgin. This city, 
according to the narrative of Arculf who visited it, is not so 
remarkable for situation as for its glorious fame, whkf 
been published throughout the churches of all nati 
it is situated on the narrow ridge of a mountain, 
rounded on all sides by valleys, the ridge of gro 
stretching from east to west for about a mile ; round * 
level plain on the top of it is a low wall without towei 
built right round the brow of that little mountain, wh.' 
overhangs the little valleys lying around on both sic' 
while the dwellings of the citizens are scattered ovet 
intervening ground within the wall, along the longer. 



II.— The Place of the Nativity of the Lord, i 



In the extreme eastern angle of this city is a sort „. 
natural half cave, 4 the extremity of the interior of which is 
the Manger of the Lord, in which His mother laid the new- 
born babe ; while another, contiguous to the manger we 
have just mentioned, 6 is shown to such as enter, as being the 

1 ' Of the district of Jerusalem ; that is, Bethlehem,' V. } R. 

* C. reads, 'about Bethlehem, which is the district of Jerusalem.' 

* Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 40. 4 C. omits 'half.' 

5 C. inserts, ' where a little house has been constructed of stone/ 



meter. 



Church of St. Mary. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY AD A MN AN. 



29 



traditional site of His real nativity. The whole of this 
cave of the Manger of the Lord at Bethlehem has been 
adorned on the inside with precious marble, in honour of 
the Saviour, while in the half cave, above the stone 
chamber, there has been built the Church of St Mary, 
above the place where the Lord is said to have been 
actually born, which is a grand structure. 

Ill,— The Rock situated beyond the Wall, upon 
which the Water, -in which He was fir.st 
washed after His Birth, was poured. 

Here I think I must briefly mention the rock lying 
beyond the wall, upon which the water of the first bathing 
of the Lord's body after His birth, was poured from the 
topi of the wall out of the vessel into which it had been 
This water of the sacred bath, poured from the wall, 
nd a receptacle in a rock lying below, which had been 
lowed out by nature like a trench : and this water has 
1 constantly replenished from that day to our own time 
ng the course of many ages, so that the cavity is shown 
of the purest water without any loss or diminution, our 
'iour miraculously bringing this about from the day of 
; nativity, of which the prophet sings : ' Who brought 
ter out of the rock ; >l and the Apostle Paul, ' Now that 
*x>ck was Christ/ 3 who, contrary to nature, brought water 
or a stream out of the hardest rock in the desert to console 
His thirsting people. Such is the power of God and the 
wisdom of God, who brought out water also from that rock 
of Bethlehem and keeps its cavity always full of water : 
this our Arculf inspected with his own eyes, and he washed 
his face in it. 



1 Isaiah xlviii. 21. 



* 1 Cor. x. 4. 




30 ARCULF 1 S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



IV. — Another Church in which the Tomb of 

David is seen. 

Arculf, when I asked him about the Sepulchre of King 
David, 1 gave us this answer : I myself inquired very care- 
fully about the Sepulchre of King David, in which he was 
buried in the earth, and visited it. It lies in the middle 2 of 
the pavement of the church, without any overlying orna- 
ment, surrounded only by a low fence 8 of stone, and having 
a lamp shining brightly placed over it. 

This church is built outside the wall of the city in an 
adjoining valley, which joins the Hill of Bethlehem on the 
north. 

V. — The Church within which is the Sepulchre 

of St. Hieronymus [Jerome]. 

As we inquired with like solicitude as to the Sepulchre 
of St Hieronymus,* Arculf told us : I saw the Sepulchre 
Hieronymus, as to which you inquire, which is in a chu 
built in a valley beyond that little city, 5 which is r 
terminous with the ridge of the Hill of Bethlehem, r 
tioned above, and lies to the south of it This Sepul 
of St. Hieronymus is of similar workmanship to the Tc 
of David, and is unornamented. 

VI. — The Tombs of the Three Shepherds, arou 

whom, when the Lord was born, the Heavens* 
Brightness shone; and their Church. 

Arculf gave us a short account of the tombs of those 
shepherds, around whom, on the night of the Lord's 

1 Compare Ant. Mar., p. 23 ; Bord. Pil., p. 27. 
* C. reads, 4 south.' 

1 4 Pyramis' here, and p. 31, has apparently the meaning of a 4 square 
fence. 1 See Reeves, p. 452. 
\ Compare Ant. Mar., p. 23. * C. omits 4 little.' 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. y 

Nativity, the heavenly brightness shone : I visited, he said, 
the three tombs of those three shepherds who are buried in a 
church near the Tower of Gader, 1 which is about a mile to 
the east of Bethlehem, whom, when the Lord was born, 
the brightness of the angelic light 2 surrounded at that place, 
that is near the Tower of the Flock ; where that church has 
been built, containing the sepulchres of those shepherds. 

VII.— The Sepulchre of Rachel. 

The Book of Genesis relates that Rachel was buried in 
Ephrata, that is, in the district of Bethlehem, and the 
' Book of Places ' relates that Rachel was buried in that 
district close to the road. In answer to my questions 
Jt this road, Arculf said : There is a royal road which 
s from iElia southwards to Hebron, close to which, 
miles from Jerusalem, is Bethlehem on the east, while 
Sepulchre of Rachel is at the end of this road on the 
., that is, on one's right hand as one goes to Hebron ; it 
building of common workmanship and without orna-. 
tation, surrounded by a stone fence.* There is shown 
at the present day the inscription with her name, 
;h Jacob, her husband, erected above it. 5 



iebron, which is also Mambre, was once the metropolis 
ji the Philistines and inhabited by giants ; David reigned 
in it for seven years, and, as the sainted Arculf relates, it 
is not now surrounded by walls. Some traces of the fcity, 
which was long ago destroyed, appear in remnants of ruins ; 
but it has some poorly built villages, fields, and farm- 
houses, some lying within, others without, those remains 

1 C. reads, ' Aden' So St. Paula, p. 8. It is now known as Beit 
Sahur. Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 42. 
* 4 Voice,' A, C 9 C. reads, c five.' 4 See p. 30, note 3. 

8 A monument at this spot is constantly spoken of from A.D. 333. 



VIII.— Hebron. 




32 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



of the destroyed walls, scattered over the surface of the 
plain, while a multitude of people live in those villages and 
farms. 

IX. — The Valley of Mambre, and the Sepulchre 



To the east of Hebron is a field with a double cave, 
looking towards Mambre, which Abraham bought from 
Ephron the Hittite, for a possession of a double sepulchre. 1 

In the valley of this field the sainted Arculf visited the 
site of the Sepulchre of Arba, that is, of the four patriarchs, 
Abraham, and Isaac, and Jacob, and Adam, the first man, 
whose feet are not, as is customary in other parts of tb- 
world, turned towards the east in burial, but are turnet 
the south, and their heads to the north. The site of £ 
sepulchres is surrounded by a low rectangular* wall. Ad 
the first created, to whom, when he sinned, immediately * 
the sin was committed, God the Creator said : ' Dust thou 
and to the dust thou shalt return/ 8 is separated somev 
from the other three, next the northern side of the rec 
gular stone rampart, buried not in a stone sepulchre cu 
in the rock above ground, as other honoured men ot 
seed lie, but buried in the ground, covered with earth, 
himself, dust, turned into dust, rests waiting the resur 
tion with all his seed. And thus in that sepulchre is in- 
filled the divine sentence uttered to him as to himself. 4 

- 1 £.y K, R., add, ' which are not seen above the ground, but there 
are thought to be twin sepulchres under the ground.' A description of 
the Haram enclosure at Hebron is given by Capt. Conder in P. F. M., 
III., pp. 333-346, and by the late Dean Stanley, 'Jewish Church/ Vol. I., 
Appendix II., pp. 416-437 (London, 1877). Compare Ant. Mar., p. 24 ; 
Abbot Daniel, p. 45 ; 'Journey through Syria and Palestine/ pp. 53 ff. 

* ' Quadrato ' appears here to be used for ' quadrangulo,' the real 
shape of the enclosure not being square. * Gen, iii. 19. 

4 ' Because he was buried in the earth/ Z?., K, R. 



of the Four Patriarchs. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 



And after the example of the Sepulchre of the first 
parent, the other three Patriarchs also rest in sleep covered 
with common dust, their four Sepulchres having placed above 
them small monuments, cut out and hewn from single 
stones, in the form of a basilica, and formed according to 
the measure of the length and the breadth of each 
Sepulchre. The three adjoining Sepulchres of Abraham 
and Isaac and Jacob are protected by three hard white 
stones, placed over them, formed according to the shape of 
which we have now written, as has been said above; 
while Adam's Sepulchre is also protected by a stone placed 
over it, but of darker colour and poorer workmanship. 
Arculf saw also the poorer and smaller monuments of the 
three women, namely Sara, and Rebecca, and Lia, buried 
in the earth. The sepulchral field of those patriarchs is 
found to be one furlong from the wall of that most ancient 
»ron, towards the east. This Hebron, it is said, was 
ded before all the cities, not only of Palestine, but also 
eded in its foundation all the cities of Egypt, although 
is now been so miserably destroyed. 
ius far let it suffice to have written as to the 
Ichres of the Patriarchs. 

X.— The Hill and the Oak of Mambre. 

A mile to the north of the Tombs that have been 
described above, is the very grassy and flowery hill of 
Mambre, looking towards Hebron, which lies to the south 
of it This little mountain, which is called Mambre, has 
a level summit, at the north side of which a great stone 
church has been built, in the right side of which between 
the two walls of this great Basilica, the Oak of Mambre, 1 

1 The Oak or Terebinth of Abraham has been shown in two different 
sites. Arculf and many others (Jerome, I tin. Hicrosol., Sozomen, 
Eucherius, Benjamin of Tudela, the Abbot Daniel, p. 43, etc.) seem 



3 




34 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



wonderful to relate, stands rooted in the earth ; it is also 
called the oak of Abraham, because under it he once 
hospitably received the Angels. St. Hieronymus elsewhere 
relates, that this tree had existed from the beginning of 
the world to the reign of the Emperor Constantine ; but 
he did not say that it had utterly perished, perhaps because 
at that time, although the whole of that vast tree was not 
to be seen as it had been formerly, yet a spurious trunk 
still remained rooted in the ground, protected under the 
roof of the church, of the height of two men ; from this 
wasted spurious trunk, which has been cut on all sides by 
axes, small chips are carried to the different provinces of the 
world, on account of the veneration and memory of that 
oak, under which, as has been mentioned above, that famous 
and notable visit of the Angels was granted to the patriarch 
Abraham. Around the church, which is built there in 
honour of that place, a few dwellings of monks are she 
But as to these, let it suffice to have said this ; let us g< 
to other points. 

XI. — The Pine-forest from which FiREWoor 

BROUGHT TO JERUSALEM ON CAMELS. 

As we leave Hebron, we come, at a distance of 
miles, to the north of the city, and in a wide plain not fa. 
from the side of the road on the left hand, to a hill of nc 
great size covered with pines. From this pine forest, wood 
is carried to Jerusalem on camels for burning in fires — on 
camels, I say, for, as Arculf relates, carts or waggons can 
rarely be found throughout all Judaea. 

to point to the ruin of er Rameh, near which is Beit el Khuli), or 
Abraham's House, with a fine spring-well. This is still held by the 
Jews to be the Oak of Mamre. The Christians point to another site, 
Ballutet Sebta, where is a fine specimen of Sindian (Quercus Pseudo- 
coccifera). 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 



35 



XIL— Jericho. 



Our sainted Arculf saw the site of the city of Jericho, 
which Joshua destroyed, after crossing the Jordan, slaying 
its king, in the place of which Hiel 1 of Bethel, of the tribe of 
Ephraim, built another city, which our Saviour thought fit 
to honour with His presence. At the time when the 
Romans attacked and besieged Jerusalem, this city was 
taken and destroyed on account of the perfidy of its in- 
habitants. In its place a third was built, which also after a 
long interval of time was itself destroyed ; of its ruins, as 
Arculf relates, some traces are shown. Marvellous to say, 
even after these three successive cities have been destroyed 
on the same site, there still remains only the house of Raab 
the harlot, 2 who hid the two spies, whom Joshua Ben-Nun 
sent across, concealing them in flax straw in the garret 
^ e stone walls of her house remain, but without a roof, 
e whole site of the city is left without human habitation, 
: even having a house of rest, and produces corn and 
es. 8 Between the site of this destroyed city and the 
r Jordan are great palm groves, throughout which are 
tered spots where there are nearly countless houses 
ibited by sorry fellows of the race of Channan. 4 

XIII.— Galgal, and the Twelve Stones which the 
Children of Israel, after crossing the River 
Jordan, took from its Dried Channel. 

Arculf, of whom I have spoken, saw a large Church in 
Galgal, built on the spot where the children of Israel, after 
crossing the Jordan, encamped for the first time in the land 

* MSS. 1 Oza.' 

9 Compare Bord. PH., p. 25 ; Ant. Mar., p. 12. 

* Compare Abbot Daniel, p. 31. 

4 Compare Mukad., p. 56, 'The people are brown-skinned and 



swarthy.' 



3-2 




36 



ARCULF' S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



of Chanaan. In this church too the sainted Arciilf noted 
the twelve stones as to which, after the crossing of the 
Jordan, the Lord spoke to Josue : l Choose twelve men, one 
for each tribe, and command them to take from the middle 
of the channel of the Jordan, where the feet of the priests 
have stood, twelve very hard stones, which ye shall place 
on the site of your camp, where ye shall pitch your tents 
this night. These, I say, Arculf saw, six of them lying on 
the pavement on the right side of the church, and an equal 
number on the north side, all of them unpolished and 
common ; each of them is so large that, as Arculf himself 
relates, two strong young men of this time can scarcely 
raise it from the earth; while one had by some un- 
known accident been broken in two parts, and has been 
artificially joined again by an iron clamp. Galgal,* where 
the above-mentioned church is built, lies^to the east of the 
most ancient Jericho on this side of the Jordan, in the lc 
the tribe of Juda, at the fifth milestone from Jericho ; 
Tabernacle was fixed here for a longtime; and in this pi. 
as is said, the above-named church was built, in which 
the above-mentioned twelve stones; it is held in marve! 
reverence and honour by the people of that district. 

XIV.— The Place where our Lord was baptizel 



That sacred and honoured place, where the Lord was 
baptized by John, is always covered by the waters of the 
1 Joshua iv. 1-3. 

1 C reads, ' He saw also in Galgal another church on the east side 
of the ancient Jericho, and at the fifth milestone from Jericho, where 
the Tabernacle was fixed for a long time.' The name of Galgal is 
still found in Birket Jilujlieh. The distance from Jericho is most 
variously stated by different pilgrims : 'one mile/ Theodoras, ch.xvi. ; 
'not far/ Ant Mar., p. 12 ; 4 a verst' (two-thirds English mile) 'to- 
wards the summer sun-rising, 1 N.E., Abbot Daniel, p. 32. 

* As to the Holy Places on and near the Jordan, see Ant. Mar., 
Appendix I., pp. -38-41. 



by John. 8 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN, 37 

river Jordan, and as Arculf, who went to the place, relates, 
he passed backwards and forwards to it 1 through the river ; 
in that sacred place a wooden cross of great size is fixed, 
close to which the water comes up to the neck of the tallest 
man, or, at a time of great drought, when the waters are 
diminished, up to his breast ; but when the river is in 
flood, the whole of . the cross is covered over by the 
additional waters. The site of that cross, accordingly, 
marking the place where, as has been said above, the Lord 
was baptized, is on this side 2 of the bed of the river, and a 
strong man can with a sling throw a stone from it as far as 
the other bank on the Arabian side. From the site of the 
above-mentioned cross, a stone bridge is carried on 
arches to the bank, across which men go to the cross and 
descend by a slope to the bank, ascending as they return. 3 
At, the edge of the river is a small square church, built, as is 
\, on the spot where the garments of the Lord were taken 
; of at the time when He was baptized. This is raised, so 
o be uninhabitable, on four stone vaults, standing above 
waters which flow below. It is protected above by 

Hue et illuc per eundem intravit fiimum.' 
\ reads, ' on the other side' 

* he text appears to be corrupt The descent was from the bank 
:o the cross, not from the cross to the bank. The allusion may, 
however, be to the descent from the upper to the lower bank. Compare 
Bede, p. 82. The translation of C. for the whole passage is : ' He told 
us also that that sacred, holy, and honourable place, in which the Lord 
was baptized by John, is always covered by the waters of the river 
Jordan ; and in that place a wooden cross has been fixed. The site 
of that cross, where the Lord was baptized, is on the other side of the 
bed of the river, while at the edge of the river there is a small church, 
where, as is said, the garments of the Lord were taken care of. This 
basilica stands above the waters, so as to be uninhabitable, since the 
waters flow under it on both sides, and is supported on four stone 
vaults and arches. On the higher ground, there is another church in 
honour of St John Baptist' 




38 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



slacked lime, 1 and below, as has been said, is supported by 
vaults and arches. This church is in the lower ground of the 
valley through which the river Jordan flows ; while on the 
higher ground, overhanging it, a great monastery of monks 
is built on the brow of the opposite hill. There is also 
enclosed within the same wall as the monastery, a church 
in honour of St. John Baptist, built of squared stones. 

XV. — The Colour of the Jordan, and the 



The colour of the river Jordan appears from ArculPs 
narrative to be white on the surface, like milk, and as it 
enters the Salt Sea its colour can easily be distinguished 
from that of the Dead Sea for a long distance along its 
course. 1 

In great tempests the Dead Sea casts up salt on the 
ground by the dashing of its waves, and this can usually 
had in abundance along its circuit, affording a very la 
supply, not only to those in the vicinity but also to : 
distant nations ; it is sufficiently dried by the heat of 
sun. Salt is otherwise obtained in a mountain of Sic 
for the stones of that mountain, when turned out of 
earth, prove to be naturally most salt to the taste, this being 
properly called Earth Salt Sea salt, however, is usually 
given a different name from earth salt. From this the Lord 
is believed to have derived His simile when He says to 
the Apostles in the Gospel : ' Ye are the salt of the earth/ 
etc. As to this earth salt found in the mountain of Sicily, 
we were told by the sainted Arculf, who spent some days 

1 ' Coctili creta.' ' I do not remember having seen the expression 
elsewhere.'— C. W. W. 

2 Travellers speak of the water of the Jordan where it debouches 
into the Salt Sea as so turgid that its stream can be plainly traced for 
some distance in the clear blue water of the sea, ( Mount Seir,' p. 163 ; 
Tristram's * Land of Israel,' p. 249. 



Dead Sea. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 39 



in Sicily, and who proved by sight and taste and touch 
that it was really the very saltest of salt. 



He informed us also as to the salt of the Dead Sea, 
which he said he had similarly made proof of by the same 
three senses named above ; he visited also the sea-shore of 
that lake we have mentioned above, the length of which, 
extending to Zoar of Arabia, 1 is 580 furlongs; the breadth 
in the neighbourhood of Sodom is 150 furlongs. 

XVII.— The Fountains of the Jordan. 
Our Arculf proceeded also to that place in the province 
of Phenicia, where the Jordan seems to emerge from two 
neighbouring fountains at the roots of Lebanon, one of 
"-Mch is called Jor and the other Dan, which, mingling 
ather, give rise to the compound name Jordan. 2 But it 
o be noted that the source of the Jordan is not in 

Zoar ('Zoari' is the form used here) of Arabia (spelt as Sughar by 
caddasi, also Zughar and Sukar) is the Segor of the Crusaders, the 
.sent Tell esh Shighur. In Mukaddasi's time (985 A.D.) it was 'for 
immercial prosperity like a miniature Busrah' (p. 3), and it was the 
apital of the district. The question of the identification of this site 
*ith the Zoar of Lot is discussed by Mr. Guy Le Strange in 'Across 
the Jordan/ pp. 317-320, from a careful examination of the Arab geo- 
graphers. See also a paper by Mons. Clermont Ganneau, translated 
in the P. E. F. Quarterly Statement, January, 1886. Mukaddasi calls 
the Dead Sea 1 the Lake of Sughar.' See St Paula, p. 10 ; Ant. Mar., 
pp. 10, 27 ; Abbot Daniel, p. 47 ; Mukad., pp. 62, 84- The length of the 
Dead Sea is 49 miles, the greatest breadth 9} miles. 

* The two sources of the Jordan, at Banias (Caesarea Philippi) and 
Tell el Kady (Dan). The idea that these streams were called 'Jor* 
and * Dan/ and the derivation from this fact of the name given to the 
river formed by their united stream, date from the time of Josephus at 
least. Compare Ant. Mar., p. 6 ; Ernoul, p. 50. The Abbot Daniel 
strangely represents (p. 60) the two streams as flowing, three bow- 
shots apart, from the Sea of Galilee, and re-uniting after about half a 
verst (a third of a mile). 



XVI.— The Dead Sea— continued. 




40 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



Paneum, but in the district of Trachonitis, at a distance 
of 1 20 furlongs 1 from Caesarea Philippi, which is now 
Paneas, a name taken from the mountain Paneum, which 
is in Trachonitis.* Phiala, which is always full of water, 
whence the Jordan flows through underground channels, 
bubbles up also in Paneum, in two divisions, which, as has 
been said above, are usually called Jor and Dan. On 
leaving this, after some interval, they flow together so as to 
form one river, which thence directs its course for 120 fur- 
longs, without receiving any addition, 8 as far as the city of 
Julias. 4 Afterwards it flows through* the middle of the lake, 
called Genezar, whence, after wandering through a con- 
siderable desert tract, it is received in the Asphaltic Lake, 
and is lost in it. Thus having passed victoriously through 
two lakes, its course is stayed by a third. 



The sainted Arculf, who has been so often mentior 
went round the greater part of the Sea of Galilee, whic 
also called the Lake of Cinnereth and the Sea of Tiber 

L'i99.'£» 

1 The belief that the real source of the Jordan was in a Lake Pniaj 
on the road to Trachonitis, 120 stadia from Banias, from which th 
water flowed underground to the Cave of Pan in the latter place, is a. 
old as the time of Josephus, and has been completely given up only in 
recent years. Phiala is identified with the Birket er Ram, S.E. of 
Banias. 

1 The Jordan is joined by the Nahr Hasbany, half a mile below the 
junction of the streams from Banias and Tell el Kady. The length of 
the river from that point to the Lake of Galilee is rather more than 
20 miles. 

4 C reads, * Tiberias/ and continues, 1 Thence it flows to the place 
which is called Genezar. The Lake of Galilee is formed from the 
Jordan ; it is called at one time the Sea of Cenereth, at another the 
Sea of Tiberias ; great woods adjoin it.' The identification of (Beth- 
saida-) Julias with the ruin et Tell, a little more than a mile north of 
the point of the debouchure of the Jordan into the lake, cannot be 
discussed here. Cf. ' The Jaulan,' p. 246. 



XVIII.— The Sea of Galilee. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY A DA M NAN. 



41 



and which is closely surrounded by great woods. The lake 
itself, the size of which almost entitles it to the name of 
a sea, extends in length to 140 furlongs, and in breadth 
stretches over 40 j 1 its waters are sweet and good for 
drinking, since they receive nothing that is thick with 
marsh mud or turbid, because it is surrounded on all 
sides by a sandy shore, wherefore its water is purer and 
better 2 for use. Of fish, moreover, no finer kinds, either in 
taste or in appearance, can be found in any other lake. 8 

We have taken these short particulars as to the source 
of the Jordan and the Lake of Cinnereth partly from the 
chird book of the Jewish Captivity, partly from the expe- 
rience of Arculf. He relates with perfect certainty that he 
went in eight 4 days from that place where the Jordan 
emerges from the gorge of the Sea of Galilee to that where 
it enters the Dead Sea. This most salt sea the sainted 
' ~~ulf very often gazed at from the summit of the Mount 
)livet, as he himself narrates. 

XIX.— SlCHEM AND THE WELL OF SAMARIA. 

Arculf, the sainted priest, passed through the district of 
.amaria, and came to the city of that province which is 
jailed, in Hebrew, Sichem, but is named Sicima by Greek 
and Latin custom ; it is also often called Sichar, however 
improperly. Near that city he saw a church built beyond 
the wall, which is four-armed, stretching towards the four 
cardinal points, like a cross, a plan of which is drawn below. 5 
In the middle of it is the Fountain of Jacob, which is also 

I The extreme length of the lake is 12$ miles, its* greatest width 
(from Mejdel to Khersa) 6} miles. 1 The water of the lake is clear, 
bright, and sweet to the taste, except in the neighbourhood of the 
salt-springs, and where it is defiled by the drainage of Tiberias.'— 
* Recovery of Jerusalem, 7 pp. 339 f. 

I I Softer,' L. * MSS. read 4 place.' * ' Seven,* L. 

* See Ant. Mar., p. 6, note 1 ; St. Paula, p. 13 ; Bord. Pil., p. 18, note 7. 



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42 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



often called a well, looking towards its four divisions, upon 
which the Saviour, wearied out with the toil of His journey, 
sat one day at the sixth hour, when the woman of Samaria 1 
came to that well at mid-day to draw water. As to this 
well, the woman, among other things, said in answer to the 
Lord : ' Lord, neither hast Thou anything to draw with, and 





F 3 ^ 

CB 










s ■ 


O 






CB 











PLAN OF THE CHURCH BUILT ABOVE JACOB'S WELL. 



the well is deep.' 2 Arculf, who drank water from the wel 
relates as to its depth : The well that I saw has a depth o 
twice twenty orgyiae, that is, forty cubits. An orgyia, or 
cubit, is the length from extremity to extremity of the 
outstretched arms. 3 

Sichem, or Sichema, was once a priestly city and a city 

1 C. reads, * thirsting for the faith of the woman of Samaria.' 
1 St. John iv. ii. 

* Orgyia (Apyvia), a Greek measure of length, derived from the 
human body, was the distance from extremity to extremity of the out- 
stretched arms, whence the name, from 6pky<o. It was equal to 6 feet, 
or to 4 cubits, and was xJ<jth of the stadium. — Smith's ' Dictionary of 
Antiquities,';.?/. No idea can at present be formed as to the real 
depth of the well 



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HOLY PLACES, WRLTTEN BY ADAM NAN. 43 

of refuge; it was included in the tribe of Manasseh and in 
Mount Ephraim, where Joseph's bones were buried. 

XX. — A Little Fountain in the Wilderness. 

Arculf, whom we have often mentioned, saw in a desert 
a small clear fountain, from which St. John Baptist is 
said to have drunk ; it is protected by a stone covering 
besmeared with lime. 

XXI.— The Locusts and the Wild Honey. 

As to the same John, the Evangelists write : ' Now his 
food was locusts and wild honey.' 1 Our Arculf saw, in that 
desert where John dwelt, a very small kind of locusts, the 
bodies of which are small and short like the finger of a 
hand, and which are easily captured in the grass, as their 
flfabt is short like the leaps of light frogs ; cooked in oil, 
afford food for the poor. 2 As to the ' wild honey/ 
if gave us this as his experience : In that desert I saw 
trees, with broad round leaves which are of the colour 
ilk and have the taste of honey ; s they are naturally 
fragile, and those who wish to eat them first rub them 
their hands and then eat them. This wild honey is thus 
und in the woods. 

XXII.— The Place where the Lord blessed the 
Five Loaves and the Two Fishes. 

Our Arculf, whom we have often mentioned, came to this 
place, where a grassy and level plain has never been 
ploughed from the day when on it the Saviour satisfied five 

1 St. Matt. iii. 4. 

1 Locusts are eaten by the Arabs, but only by the very poorest. 

This interpretation is accepted by many commentators, among 
them by Meyer, I.e. The term used is specially explained in this 
sense by Diod. Sic. XIX. 94, and Suidas, s. v. <bepc£. 



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44 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



thousand men with five loaves and two fishes ; no buildings 
are to be seen on it ; Arculf saw only a few 1 columns of 
stone lying at the margin of the fountain from which they 
are said to have drunk on that day when the Lord refreshed 
them, in their hunger, with such a refection. This place 
is on this side of* the Sea of Galilee, looking to the city of 
Tiberias which is to the south of it* 

XXI II.— The Sea of Tiberias and Capharnaum. 

Those who, coming down from Jerusalem, wish to reach 
Capharnaum, proceed, as Arculf relates, through Tiberias 
in a straight course, and thence along the Lake of 
Cinnereth, which is also the sea of Tiberias and the se? 
of Galilee ; they pass the site of the above-mentioned 
Blessing, at a point where two ways meet, and proceeding 
along the margin of the above-mentioned lake, at no great 
distance they come to Capharnaum, on the sea coast, unon 
the borders of Zabulon and Nepthalim. Arculf, who obs 
it from a neighbouring mountain, relates that it has nc 
and is confined in a narrow space between the mou 
and the lake, extending along the sea coast for a 
distance ; having the mountain on the north and the 
on the south, it stretches from west to east. 4 

1 C. reads, 4 four.' 1 ' Opposite/ Z., B. 9 K, ft. 

' Compare Ant. Mar., p. 8, note I ; St. Paula, p. 14 ; Abb. Dan., p. 6j 
The site referred to by Arculf appears to be that around the 'Ain ei 
Fuliyeh, half-way between Tiberias and el Mejdel (referred to as 'Ain 
Barideh in 'Recovery of Jerusalem/ p. 359). Tradition at present 
points to the brow of the hill between Kurn Hattin and Tiberias as 
the spot of the Feeding of the Five Thousand. The spot often referred 
to as the Mensa Christi appears to be el 'Oreimeh, a small artificial 
square plateau above 'Ain et Tin, close to Kh. Minieh (P. F. M., vol. i., 
p. 369). All these places are on the west side of the lake. Compare 
1 City of Jerusalem/ p. 46. 

4 The evidence of Arculf as to the site of Capernaum is sufficiently 
vague to allow of its being quoted by the supporters of both the sites 
that are now in dispute— -Kh. Minieh and Tell Hum. 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 45 



XXIV.— Nazareth and its Churches. 

The city of Nazareth, as Arculf who stayed in it relates, 
is situated on a mountain. It is, like Capharnaum, un- 
walled, yet it has large houses built of stone, and also two 
very large churches. One of these, in the middle of the 
city, is built upon two vaults, on the spot where there once 
stood the house in which our Lord the Saviour was brought 
up. 1 Among the mounds below this church, 4 which, as has 
been said, is supported upon two mounds and intervening 
arches, there is a very clear spring, frequented by all the 
citizens, who draw water from it, and from the same spring 
water is raised in vessels to the church above by means of 
wheels^ The other church is reputed to be built on the 
si*^ .of the house in which the Archangel Gabriel came and 
;sed the Blessed Mary, whom he found there alone 
X hour. 8 This information as to Nazareth we have 
led from the sainted Arculf, who stayed there two 
5 and as many days, but was prevented from staying 
ger in it, as he was compelled to hasten onwards by a 
dier of Christ, well acquainted with sites, a Burgundian 
/ing a solitary life, Peter by name, who thence returned 
ircuitously to that solitary 4 place where he had formerly 
>tayed. 

1 The house of the Virgin appears to be the irregularly-shaped 
grotto known as The Virgin's Kitchen. P. F. M., vol. i., p. 276. 

* C. reads, ' Between the mounds of the two churches.' 

1 The present buildings in en N&sirah are, of course, of a far later 
period than this. But the Greek Church of St. Gabriel has a spring 
of water rising just north of the high altar, with an opening in the floor 
to the conduit, which carries the water south to the Virgin's Well, or 
the Fountain of the Annunciation, the only well in Nazareth. 



« c Holy, 




46 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



XXV.— Mount Tabor. 



Mount Tabor is in Galilee, three miles from the Lake of 
Cinnereth, marvellously round on every side, looking fron. 
its northern side over the lake we have just named. It is 
very grassy and flowery, having an ample plain on its 
pleasant summit, and is surrounded by a very large wood. 
In the middle of this level surface is a great monastery of 
monks, with a large number of their cells. For its summit 
is not drawn up to a narrow peak, but is spread over a level 
surface of twenty-four 1 furlongs in length, while its height 
is thirty furlongs. 2 

On this higher plain are also three very celebrated* 
churches 8 of no small construction, according to the number 
of those tabernacles of which Peter spoke to the Lord on 
that holy mountain, while he rejoiced in the heavenly 
vision, but yet was terrified by it, saying: 'It is good 
that we should be here ; if Thou wilt, let us mak 
three tabernacles, one for Thee and one for Moses ar, 
for Elias.'* The buildings of the monasteries and the 
churches mentioned above, with the cells of the monk 

1 * Twenty-three,' C, Bern. 

' Jebel et Tor is a conical mountain with a flat summit, which i. 
little less than a quarter of a mile long and one-eighth of £ mile wic 
1843 feet above the sea-level, 1500 feet above the Plain of Esdraelo 
at the foot. The southern face is almost bare, but the northern i 
clothed to the top with a forest of oak and terebinth, mingled with 
syringa. — 4 The Land and the Book.' 

* There are still to be traced on the summit the foundations of three 
churches which the markings of the stones show to have been built 
in Crusading times. See P. F. M., vol. L. pp. 388-391. The idea 
that Mount Tabor was the scene of the Transfiguration still strangely 
survives in spite of all proof to the contrary. It dates from a much 
earlier date than the Crusades, as shown by this passage, and by the 
still earlier references in Ant. Mar., p. 5 ; St Paula, p. 14. The 
Bordeaux Pilgrim, p. 25, places the Transfiguration on the Mount of 
Olives. 4 St Matt xvii. 4. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 



-47 



all surrounded by a stone wall. 1 There the sainted Arculf 
spent one night on the top of that holy mountain, for 
Peter, the Burgundian Christian, who was his guide in 
those places, would not allow him to stay in one hospice 
longer, but hurried him on. 2 

It should here be noted that the name of that famous 
mountain ought to be written in Greek with 0 and long 
0«j3ty>, and in Latin with the aspirate Thabor, the letter o 
being long. The proper orthography of the word is found 
in Greek books. 8 

XXVI.— Damascus. 

Damascus, according to the account of Arculf, who 
stayed some days in it, is a great royal city, situated in a 
wide plain, surrounded by an ample circuit of walls, and 
further fortified by frequent towers. Without the walls there 
are a large number of olive groves round about, while four 
great rivers flow through it, bringing great joy to the city. 
The king of the Saracens has seized the government, and 
reigns in that city, and a large church has been built there 
in hohour of St John Baptist. There has also been built, 
in that same city, a church of unbelieving Saracens which 
th©y frequent. 

/ XXVIL— Tyre. 

Our Arculf, who visited so many districts, also entered 
Tyre, the metropolis of the province of Phenicia, which in 
Hebrew and Syriac is called Tsor, and which is said in 
Greek and Latin and barbarous histories to have had no 

1 This wall may be that built by Josephus round the top of the 
mountain. 

1 C adds, ' For this Peter, leaving his parents and his country, was 
now an exile for a long time for the Lord's sake.' 

9 The Greek form is Qafiwp, but it is also represented by 'lra/3vpi©v 
(Josephus), and 'AraPvpiov (Polybius). 



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48 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



approach from the land. But some say that afterwards . 
mounds were thrown up by Nabuchodonosor, King of the 
Chaldeans, and that a place was prepared for dart; and 
battering-rams in the assault, so that the island became < 
part of the level plain. 1 This city was beautiful and very 
noble, and it is not unworthily rendered in Latin ' narrow/ 
for the island and the city have the same characteristic 
narrowness. It is situated in the land of Chanaan, where 
the Chananite or Tyrophenidan woman lived, who is men-, 
tioned in the Gospel. 

It is. to be noted that the account of the site of Tyre 
and the site of Mount Thabor,* given by the sainted Arculf, 
is in complete accordance with what we have excerpted 
above from the commentaries of St. Hteronymus. Also what 
we have above stated as to the site and form of Mount 
Thabor, according to the narrative of the sainted Arculf, in j 
no way differs from what St. Hieronymus narrates as to the , 
situation and the marvellous roundness of that mountain. 
From Mount Thabor to Damascus is a seven 8 days' journey. 4 

XXVIIL— Alexandria, and the River Nile anp its 
Crocodiles. 

That great city, which was once the metropolis of Egjtot, 
was formerly called in Hebrew No. 6 It is a very populous 
city, deriving its name of Alexandria, a name known anV 
famous among all nations, from its founder Alexander, the 
king of Macedonia, from whom it received both the magni- 

1 It was by Alexander the Great (who took Tyre after a seven . 
month's' siege, B.C 332) that the island was united to the mainland by > 
an artificial mole. The siege by Nebuchadnezzar, which lasted for 
nineteen years, was probably ended by capitulation on honourable 
terms. * 4 And . . . Thabor,' only in JL 

• Some MSS., * two,' 1 four,' 4 eight.' 4 C. ends here. 

5 The 1 No' of the Old Testament is undoubtedly Thebes, not Alex- 
andria (as Jerome supposed). 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 49 



tude of a city and its name. As to its situation, Arculf gave 

us an account, which differs in no way from what we have 

learned in the course of our previous reading. 

Going down from Jerusalem and beginning his voyage 

at Joppa, he had a journey of forty days to Alexandria, 

of which Nahum the prophet speaks briefly, when he says : 

• Water round about it, whose riches are the sea, waters are 

its walls/ 1 For on the south it is surrounded by the mouths 

of the river Nile, while on the north, 2 as the outline of its 

position clearly shows, it is situated upon 8 the Nile and the sea, 

so that on this side and on that it is surrounded by water. The 

city lies like an enclosure between Egypt and the Great Sea, 

without a [natural] haven, difficult to approach from without. 

Its port is more difficult than others, in form like the human 

body, more capacious at the head and the roads, but narrower 

in the straits, in which it receives the movements of the sea 

and ships, by which some aids to breathing are given to the 

port When one has escaped the narrows and mouths of 

the port, a stretch of sea is spread out before one, far and 

wide, like the form of the rest of the body. On the right 

side of the port there is a small island, on which is a very 

high tower, which the Greeks and the Latins have in 

imon called, from its use, Pharus,* because it is seen by 

Nahum iii. 8, of No. (See former note.) 
J MSS. read, 'it is surrounded by the Mareotic Lake ; thus, as the 
jtline,' etc 9 Perhaps * between.' 

4 The long, narrow island of Pharos, stretching to the north of 
Alexandria, and connected with it by the Mole (called from its length 
'Heptastadium'), had at its eastern end the lighthouse from which it 
took its name, which was one of the seven wonders pfcttie a,nqe^v 
world. It was begun by Ptolemy Soter, and compje&li'fey hfc suck \ 
cessor. It consisted of several stories, and is said /^iia^^eBa^DQ 
feet in height ; it was a square structure of whW/Wfble f on its top . \ 
fires were burned for the direction of mariners, asrjffift entrance ^<jthe 
magnificent harbour, between Pharos and the headland of Lochias, 
was dangerous and rocky. See Smith's Dictionaries of the Uible and 
of Geography, and Kitto's Cyclopaedia, s. v. * Alexandria.' 

4 



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5o ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



voyagers at a great distance, in order that, before they 
approach the port, they may, specially during the night, 
recognise the proximity of land by the light of the flames, 
that they may not be deceived by the darkness and fall 
upon rocks or fail to recognise the boundaries of the 
entrance. Men are accordingly employed there by whom 
torches and other masses of wood which have been collected 
are set on fire to serve as a guide to the land, showing the 
narrow entrance of the straits, the bosom of the waves, and 
the windings of the entrance, lest the slender keel should 
graze the rocks and in the very entrance strike upon the 
rocks that are hidden by the waves. Accordingly a ship 
ought to be somewhat deflected from the straight course, to 
prevent its running into danger from striking on hidden 
stones. For the approach in the port is narrower on the 
right side, but the port is wider on the left Round the 
island also, beams of immense size have been regularly laid 
down, to prevent the foundations of the island from yielding 
to the constant collision of the rising sea, and being loosened 
by the injury. So that the middle channel, among rugged 
rocks and broken masses of earth, is beyond doubt always 
unquiet, and it is dangerous for ships to enter through the 
roughness of the passage. 

The port extends in size over thirty furlongs, and u 
quite safe even in the greatest storms, as the abo\ 
mentioned straits and the obstacle of the island repel tL 
waves of the sea, the bosom of the port being so defende* 
by them as to be removed from the reach of tempests and 
at peace from breakers by which the entrance is made rough. 
Nor are the safety and the size of the port undeservedly 
so great, since there must be borne into it whatever is need- 
ful for the use of the whole city. 1 For the needs of the 
innumerable population of those districts give rise to much 



*' World,' V. 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 



51 



commerce for the use of the whole city, and the district is 
very fruitful, and, besides abounding in all other gifts and 
trades of the earth, it supplies corn for the whole world, and 
other necessary merchandise. The region is beyond doubt 
wanting in rain, but the irrigation of the Nile supplies 
spontaneous showers, so that the fields are tempered at 
once by the rain of heaven and by the fruitfulness of the 
earth ; and the situation is thus convenient both for sailors 
and for husbandmen. These sail, those sow ; these are borne 
round on their voyages, those till the land, sowing without 
need of ploughing, travelling without waggons. You see 
a country intersected by watercourses, and houses through- 
out the land raised as it were upon walls, on the banks of 
the navigable rivers, standing on the edge of each bank of 
the river Nile. The river is navigable, they say, up to the 
city of Elephanti ; a ship is prevented from proceeding 
further by the cataracts, that is,* flowing hills of water, not 
from want of depth, but from the fall of the whole river and 
the downward rush of the waters. 

The narrative of the sainted Arculf about the situation 
of Alexandria and the Nile is proved not to differ from 
what we have learned from our reading in the books of 
others. We have, indeed, abbreviated some excerpts from 
these writings and inserted them in this description, as to 
e havenlessness of this city or the difficulty of its haven, 
. to the island and the tower built on it, as to the terminal 
osition of Alexandria between the sea and the mouths of 
he river Nile, etc. Hence it happens beyond doubt that 
the site of the city, which is as it were choked between 
these two limits, extends from west to east very far along a 
arrow stretch of ground, as the narrative of Arculf shows ; x 
2 relates that he began to enter the city at the third hour 

1 Alexandria is stated by Pliny to be four miles in length, nearly a 
ile in breadth, and fifteen miles in circumference. 



4—2 




52 



ARCULF' S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



.of the day in the month of October, and on account of the 
length of the city could hardly reach the other end of its 
length before evening. It is surrounded by a long circuit 
of walls, fortified by frequent towers, constructed along the 
margin of the river and the curving shore of the sea. 

Further, as one coming from Egypt enters the city of 
Alexandria, one meets on the north 1 side a large church, in 
which Mark the Evangelist is buried; his sepulchre is 
shown before the altar in the eastern end of this four-sided 
church, and a monument of him has been built above it 
of marble. 

So much, then, about Alexandria, which, as we have said 
above, was called No before it was so much enlarged by 
Alexander the Great, and which, as we further said above, 
adjoins what is called the Canopean mouth of the river 
Nile, separating Asia from Egypt and also Lybia. On 
account of the inundation of Egypt by the river Nile, they 
construct raised mounds along its banks, which, if they 
should be broken by the negligence of the watchmen or by 
too great an irruption of water, by no means irrigate the 
flooded fields, but spoil them and lay them waste. On this 
account a considerable number of the inhabitants of the 
plains of Egypt, according to the narrative of the sainted 
Arculf, who often sailed over that river in Egypt, live above 
the water in houses supported on transverse beams. 

Arculf relates that crocodiles live in the river Nile, quai 
rupeds of no great size, very voracious, and so strong tha 
one of them, if it can find a horse or an ass or an ox eating 
grass on the river bank, suddenly rushes out and attacks' 
it, or even seizing one foot of the animal with its jaws- 
drags it under the water, and completely devours the entir 
animal • 



*SomeMSS add, 1 near at hand. 1 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 53 



BOOK III. 



I. — The City of Constantinople. 



ARCULF, who has been mentioned so often, on his return 
from Alexandria, stayed for some days in the island of 
Crete, and sailed thence to Constantinople, where he spent 
some months. This city is, beyond doubt, the metropolis 
of the Roman Empire. It is surrounded by the waves of 
the sea except on the north ; the sea breaking out from the 
Great Sea for forty miles, 1 while from the wall of Constan- 
tinople it still further stretches sixty miles 2 up to the mouths 
of the river Danube. This imperial city is surrounded by 
no small circuit of walls, twelve miles in length ; 8 it is a 
promontory by the sea-side, having, like Alexandria or 
Carthage, walls built along the sea coast, additionally 
strengthened by frequent towers, after the fashion of Tyre ; 
within the city walls it has numerous houses, very many of 
which are of marvellous size; these, are of stone, and are 
iilt after the fashion of the dwelling-houses of Rome. 

II.— The Foundation of that City. 

As to its foundation the citizens relate this tradition, 
which they haye received from their ancestors : The 
Emperor Constantine, having gathered together an infinite 

1 Others, 1 sixty/ * Others, 4 forty.' 

9 The walls built by the younger Tbeodosius to surround the capital 
and its suburbs made the circumference of the city between ten and 
eleven English miles. 




54 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



multitude of men, and collected from all sides infinite 
supplies, so that all other cities were almost stripped bare, 
began to build a city to bear his name on the Asian side — 
that is, in Cilicia, across the sea which, in these districts, 
separates Asia from Europe. But one night, while the in- 
numerable forces of workmen were sleeping in their tents 
over the vast length of the camp, all the different kinds 
of tools used by the artificers of the different works were 
suddenly removed, no one knew how. With dawn, many 
of the workmen, troubled and downcast, brought before the 
Emperor Constantine himself a complaint as to the sudden 
occult removal of the tools; and the King consequently 
inquired of them : 1 Did you hear of other things being ab- 
stracted from the camp ?' ' Nothing/ they say, ' but all the 
work-tools.' Then next the King commands them : 1 Go 
quickly to the sea coasts of the neighbouring districts on 
both sides [of the straits] and search them carefully, and if 
you chance to find your tools in any place in the country, 
watch over them there meanwhile, and do not bring them 
back here, but let some of you return to me, so that I may 
have accurate information as to the finding of the tools.' 

On hearing this, the workmen follow out the King's 
directions, and going away did as he ordered, searching the 
boundaries of the territories next the sea on both sides. 
And behold, on the European side, across the sea, the 
found the tools gathered together in a heap in one plac 
between two seas. On making the discovery, some of them 
are sent back to the King, and oh their arrival they 
announce the finding of the tools in such a place. On 
learning this, the King immediately orders trumpeters to 
pass through the camp, blowing their trumpets and ordering 
the force to move its camp, saying : c Let us remove from 
this place to build a city on the spot divinely pointed out 
to us ;' and at the same time he had ships made ready, 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 55 



and crossed over with his whole force to the spot where 
the tools were found, as he knew that the place thus shown 
to him by their removal was that designed by God for the 
purpose. 1 There he at once founded a city, which is called 
Constantinople, the name being compounded of his own 
name and the Greek word for city, so that the founder's 
name is retained in the former part of the compound. 

Let this description of the situation and the foundation 
of that royal city suffice. 

III.— The Church in which the Cross of the Lord 
is preserved. 

But we must not be silent as to that most celebrated 
round church in that city, built of stone and of marvellous 
size. According to the narrative of the sainted Arculf, 
who visited it for no short time, it rises from the bottom of 
its foundations in three walls, being built in triple form to a 
great height, and it is finished in a very round simple crown- 
ing vault of great beauty. This is supported on great 
arches, with a wide space between each of the above-men- 
tioned walls, suited and convenient either for dwelling or 
for praying to God in. In the northern part of the interior 
of the house is shown a very large and very beautiful ambry, 
in which is kept a wooden chest, which is similarly 
;overed over with wooden work : in which is shut up that 
wooden Cross of Salvation on which our Saviour hung for 
the salvation of the human race. This notable chest, as 
the sainted Arculf relates, is raised with its treasure of such 
preciousness upon a golden* altar, on three consecutive days 
after the lapse of a year. This altar also is in the same 

1 Constantine seems to have claimed Divine guidance in the selection 
of the site of his new capital, and in fixing its boundaries ; but the 
legends attached to these facts are of comparatively late origin. 

* c Under a brazen, 9 Bern. 




56 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



round church, being two cubits long and one broad. On 
three successive days only throughout the year is the Lord's 
Cross raised and placed on the altar, that is, on [the day of] 
the Supper of the Lord, 1 when the Emperor and the armies 
enter the church and, approaching the altar, after that 
sacred chest has been opened, kiss the Cross of Salvation. 

First of all the Emperor of the world kisses it with bent 
face, then one going up after another in the order of rank 
or age, all kiss the Cross with honour. Then on the 
next day, that is, on the sixth day of the week before 
Easter, the Queen, the matrons, and all the women of 
the people, approach it in the above-mentioned order and 
kiss it with all reverence. On the third day, that is, on [the 
day of] the Paschal Sabbath, 2 the bishop and all the clergy 
after him approach in order, with fear and trembling and 
all honour, kissing the Cross of Victory, which is placed in 
its chest. When these sacred and joyful kissings of the 
Sacred Cross are finished, that venerable chest is closed, 
and with its honoured treasure is borne back to its ambry. 

But this also should be carefully noted that there are not 
two but three short pieces of wood in the Cross, that is, 
the cross-beam and the long one which is cut and divided 
into two equal parts ; while from these threefold venerated 
beams when the chest is opened, there arises an odour of 
a wonderful fragrance, as if all sorts of flowers had beet 
collected in it, wonderfully full of sweetness, satiating and 
gladdening all in the open space before the inner walls of 
that church, who stand still as they enter at that moment ; 
for from the knots of those threefold beams a sweet-smell- 
ing liquid distills, like pressed-out oil, which causes all 

1 c In Coena Domini,' i.e n Maundy Thursday. 

* 7>., on the Saturday before Easter. The practice of calling the 
Lord's Day the Sabbath was unknown for nearly a thousand years 
after this date. 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY AD AMNAN. 57 



men of whatever race, who have assembled and enter the 
church, to perceive the above-mentioned fragrance of so 
great sweetness. This liquid is such that if even a little 
drop of it be laid on the sick, they easily recover their 
health, whatever be the trouble or disease they have been 
afflicted with. 
But as to these let this suffice. 



Arculf, the sainted man, who gave us all these details 
as to the Cross of the Lord, which he saw with his own 
eyes and kissed, gave us also an account of a Confessor 
named George, 1 which he learned in the city of Constanti- 
nople from some well-informed citizens, who were accus- 
tomed to narrate it in this form : 

In a house in the city of Diospolis there stands the 
marble column of George the Confessor, to which, during 

1 This chapter has a special historical interest, as the earliest account 
of St. George known to have been circulated in Britain ; and it is 
worthy of notice that it was in the northern part of England, where 
this narrative is known to have obtained special favour, that we first 
find St. George holding any special position (a place being assigned 
to him in the Anglo-Saxon ritual of Durham, which is probably of the 
early part of the ninth century, and a ( Passion of St. George' having 
been written by iElfric, Archbishop of York, A.D. 1020- 105 1). While 
here has been much controversy as to whether there ever was an 
nistorical person corresponding to the legendary saint, and, if there 
was, as to which of the countless Georges he was, it may probably be 
now accepted that there really was a George, prior in time to the 
Arian intruding Bishop of Alexandria, known as George of Cappadocia 
(whom Gibbon identified with the George in question), and that he was 
connected in some way with Diospolis or Lydda. For a list of the 
authorities to be consulted, as well as for a statement of the facts, see 
an article by the Rev. G. T. Stokes, on 'Georgius-Martyr' in Smith's 
Diet of Christian Biog., vol. ii., pp. 645-648, and specially the wise 
remarks of Professor Bright in closing a previous article on ' Georgius 
of Cappadocia,' p. 640. 



IV. — St. George the Confessor. 




5« 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



a time of persecution, he was bound while he was scourged, 
and on which his likeness is impressed ; he was, however, 
loosed from his chains and lived for many years after the 
scourging. It happened one day that a hard-hearted and un- 
believing fellow, mounted on horseback, having entered that 
house and seen the marble column, asked those who were 
there, 'Whose is this likeness engraved on the marble column?* 
They reply, 'This is the likeness of George the Confessor, 
who was bound to this column and scourged.' On hearing 
this, that most rough fellow, greatly enraged at the insensible 
object, and instigated by the devil, struck with his lance 
at the likeness of the sainted Confessor. The lance of that 
assailant penetrating the mass in a marvellous manner, as 
if it were a ball of snow, perforated the exterior of that 
stone column, and its iron point sticking fast was retained 
in the interior and could not be drawn out by any means. 
Its shaft, however, striking the marble likeness of the 
sainted Confessor, was broken on the outside. The horse 
also of that wretched fellow, on which he was mounted, fell 
dead under him at that moment on the pavement of the 
house. The wretched man himself too, falling to the 
ground at the same time, put out his hands to the marble 
column, and his fingers, entering it as if it were flour or 
clay, stuck fast impressed in that column. On seeing this, 
the miserable man, who could not draw back the ten 
fingers of his two hands, as they stuck fast together in the 
marble likeness of the sainted Confessor, invokes in peni- 
tence the name of the Eternal God and of His Confessor, 
and prays with tears" to be released from that bond. The 
merciful God, who does not wish the death of a sinner 
but that he may be converted and live, accepted his tearful 
penitence, and not only released him from that present 
visible bond of marble, but also mercifully set him free 
from the invisible bonds of sin, saved by faith. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAMNAN. 59 



Hence it is clearly shown in what honour George has 
been held with God, whom he confessed amid tortures, 
since his bust, which, in the course of nature, is im- 
penetrable, was made penetrable by penitence, 1 which also 
made the equally impenetrating lance of his adversary 
penetrating, and made the weak fingers of that fellow, 
which in the same course of nature were- impenetrating, 
powerfully penetrating, which at first were so fastened in 
the marble that even that hard man could not draw them 
back, but which, when in the same moment he was so 
terrified and thus softened into penitence, he drew back by 
the pity of God. Marvellous to say, the marks of his 
twice five fingers appear down to the present day inserted 
up to the roots in the marble column ; and the sainted 
Arculf inserted in their place his own ten fingers, which 
similarly entered up to the roots. Further, the blood of that 
fellow's horse, the haunch of which, as it fell dead on the 
pavement, was broken in two, cannot be washed out or 
removed by any means, but that horse's blood remains in- 
delible on the pavement of the house down to our times. 

The sainted Arculf told us another narrative- as to which 
there is no doubt, about the same George tht Confessor, 
which he had learned from some eye-witnesses of sufficient 
trustworthiness, in the above-mentioned city of Constanti- 
nople, who were in the habit of telling incidents connected 
w ; th that sainted Confessor : A layman, entering the city of 
Diospolis on horseback at a time when many thousands 
were gathering there from all sides for an expedition, came 
to that house, in which is the above-mentioned marble 
column with the impression of the sainted Confessor 
George imprinted on its front, and entering it, began to say 
to the likeness as if he were speaking in the presence 
of George himself : ' To thee, George the Confessor, I 



1 Others read 1 power.' 




6o ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



commend myself and my horse, in order that we may both 
be preserved by the virtue of thy prayers from all dangers 
of war and disease and water, and may return in safety 
to this city after the close of the expedition; and if a 
merciful God will grant thee our prosperous return, in 
accordance with the offering of our poverty, I will offer in 
return to thee this my horse which I greatly love, and will 
make it over to thee in the sight of thy likeness.' Speedily 
finishing these few words, the fellow left the house and, 
with his comrades, joined the multitude of the army 
and entered on the expedition. Afte;r many varied 
dangers of war and among many thousands of wretched 
fellows who were scattered and perished, he returns 
in safety to Diospolis, by the favour of God to George 
the Christ-worshipper, mounted on the same beloved 
horse, having purchased deliverance from all grievous 
misfortunes by that committal, and he joyfully enters 
that house in which was preserved the likeness of that 
sainted Confessor^ bringing with him gold to the value of 
his horse, and addresses the sainted George as if he were 
present : * Sainted Confessor, I give thanks to Eternal God 
who has brought me back in safety 1 through thy exalted 
constancy and prayer. Wherefore I bring to thee twenty 
solidi 2 of gold, the price of my horse which I at the first 
committed to thee and which thou hast preserved down to 
the present day.' Saying this, he lays down the above- 
described weight of gold at the feet of. the sainted likeness 
of the Confessor, loving his horse more than the gold, and 
then leaving the house, after kneeling down, mounting his 
beast he urges it to go forward, but it could not be moved 



1 V. reads, * through so many and so great dangers by the power 
of thy prayer.' 

* The solidus or aureus, from the time of Constantine the Great, 
weighed lb. (Smith's Diet of Antiq., s. v. Aurum). 



at all. 



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HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 61 



Seeing this, the fellow dismounts and re-enters the 
house and brings another ten solidi, saying: 'Sainted 
Confessor, a gentle guardian hast thou been for me to my 
horse, among the dangers in the expedition, but I see thou 
art hard and greedy in the sale of the horse/ Saying this, 
he lays the ten solidi above the twenty, saying to the 
sainted Confessor : 1 These also I give thee in addition, so 
that thou mayest be appeased and release my horse for the 
journey.' With these words he returns, and again mount- 
ing his horse, urges it forward, but it remained standing as 
if fixed in the spot, nor could it move even one foot. What 
more ? After mounting and dismounting four several times, 
entering the house with ten solidi and returning to his im- 
movable horse, he kept running hither and thither ; but by 
all his urging he could not move his horse, until a mass of 
sixty solidi was gathered there. Then at length he repeats 
the above-mentioned speech about the gentle humanity of 
the sainted Confessor and the safe guardianship in the 
expedition, and he also mentions in similar terms the hard- 
ness and even the greediness in the sale, as is said, and 
after four several times returning to the house he at last 
addressed the sainted George in this manner: 'Sainted 
Confessor, now I see clearly what thy will is. All this 
weight of gold, the whole sixty solidi, which thou desirest, 
I offer to thee as a gift, and also my horse itself which I 
promised to make over to thee before, on account of the ex- 
pedition ; now I make it over to thee, although bound with 
invisible bonds, which will however, as I believe, be soon 
released through the honour thou hast with God.' Having 
finished this speech, he goes out from the house and finds 
the horse released on that very moment, and he brings it 
with him into the house and makes it over to the sainted 
Confessor in the sight of that likeness, and departs joyfully 
praising Christ 




62 



ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE 



Hence it is plainly gathered that whatever is consecrated 
to the Lord, whether it be man or animal, according to 
what is written in the book of Leviticus, cannot be re- 
deemed or changed in any way : for if 1 any one shall change 
it, both that which was changed, and that for which it was 
changed, shall be consecrated to the Lord/ 1 and it shall 
not be redeemed. 



Arculf, who has been so often mentioned, gave us an ac- 
curate account, obtained from some well-informed witnesses 
in the city of Constantinople, as to the bust of the holy 
mother of the Lord : In that metropolitan city there used 
to hang on the wall of a house a picture of Blessed Mary, 
depicted on a small wooden tablet, as to which a certain 
stolid and hard-hearted man, on inquiring whose the picture 
was, learned from one who answered him, that it was the 
likeness of Saint Mary, ever virgin. That unbelieving Jew, 
hearing this, at the instigation of the devil, took that picture 
in great wrath from the wall, and rushed to a neighbouring 
privy ; and there, to dishonour Christ, born of Mary, he cast 
the picture of His mother through a hole upon the filth that 
lay below, and having dishonoured it by every means in 
his power, he departed. 2 Now what he did afterwards, or 
how he lived, or of what sort the end of his life was, is 
not known. But, after the wretch's departure, another 
fortunate man of the common people, a Christian,, who was 
very zealous in religious matters, coming in and knowing 
what had happened, searched for the image of Saint Mary, 
and rescued it from the human filth amidst which he found 
it, and washed it clean with the purest water, and taking it 

1 Lev. xxvii. io, 33. 

* The original cannot be literally translated in this sentence. 



V.— The Picture of St. Mary. 




HOLY PLACES, WRITTEN BY ADAM NAN. 63 



home with him, treated it with great honour. Marvellous 
to say, there always distils from the wood of that picture of 
Blessed Mary a true boiling oil, which, as Arculf used to say, 
he saw with his own eyes. This marvellous oil proves the 
honour of Mary the mother of Jesus, of whom the Father 
says, 1 In My holy oil, have I anointed Him/ 1 The same 
Psalmist says to the Son of God Himself, c The Lord Thy 
God hath anointed Thee with the oil of gladness above 
Thy fellows.' 2 

This narrative, which we have written about the situation 
and the foundation of Constantinople, and also about that 
round church in which the wood of salvation is preserved, 
etc., we learned carefully from the mouth of the saintep 
priest, Arculf; who remained in that city, by far the 
greatest of the Roman Empire, from the Paschal feast to that 
of the Lord's birth. Afterwards he sailed thence to Rome. 



There is an island in the Great Sea towards the east, 
twelve 3 miles from Sicily, in which is Mount Vulcan* which 
sounds so loudly, like thunder, all day and night, that the 
ground of Sicily, though so far away, is thought to be shaken 
by the terrific tremor, but it seems to sound more loudly on 
the sixth day of the week, and the Sabbath ; it appears 
always to burn by night, and to smoke by day. This 
Arculf told me about that mountain as I was writing ; he 
saw it with his own eyes, burning by night, but smoking by 
day; its thunder-like sound he heard with his own ears, 
while he was staying in Sicily for some days. 

1 Psalm lxxxtx. 20. * Psalm xlv. 7. * 1 Fourteen,' G. 

4 The island of Volcano, the ancient Hiera, also known as Vulcani 
Insula^ from its volcanic phenomena, is the southernmost of the Li pari 
Islands — the old AoXix, or Vulcanise, Insula;, to the north of Sicily. 
It is twelve geographical miles from Sicily. See Smith's Dictionary 
of Greek and Roman Geography, s. v. jEolise Insulae. 



VI.— Mount Vulcan. 




64 ARCULF'S NARRATIVE ABOUT THE HOLY PLACES. 



VII.— Epilogue. 



Therefore I beseech those who shall read these short 
books, to pray for the divine clemency, on behalf of the 
sainted priest Arculf, who most willingly dictated to us 
these facts of his experience of the holy places which he 
visited, which I have, in however unworthy words, de- 
scribed, although placed in the midst of laborious and 
nearly insupportable ecclesiastical cares, which come upon 
me the whole day from all sides. Therefore I charge the 
reader of these experiences that he neglect not to pray to 
Christ, the Judge of the ages, for me, a miserable sinner, the 
writer of them. 




A LITTLE BOOK CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES, 
WHICH BEDE COMPOSED BY ABBREVIATING THE 
WORKS OF FORMER WRITERS. 



I HAVE BRIEFLY DESCRIBED BOTH THE BOUNDS AND THE SITES OF 
THE PLACES, WHICH THE SACRED PAGE MAKES MORE MEMORABLE, 
I, BEDE, FOLLOWING THE GUIDANCE OF LATER AS WELL AS OF 
OLDER WRITERS, EXAMINING WHAT THE CHART OF THE MASTERS 

TELLS. 

GRANT, JESUS, THAT WE MAY EVER TEND TO THAT FATHERLAND, 
WHICH THY PERFECT VISION BLESSES FOR EVERMORE. 



5 




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THE VENERABLE BEDE CONCERNING 
THE HOLY PLACES. 



Note. — The references in the margin are to the corresponding 
passages in Arculfs Narrative, 



The situation of the city of Jerusalem, which- is Arcuif, P .a. 
almost circular in form, rises with a circuit of walls of no 
small extent, within which it has also embraced Mount 
Sion, which was once reckoned only in its vicinity, over- 
hanging the city in the south like a citadel, the larger part 
of the city lying under the mountain, upon the level 
summit of a lower hill. After the Passion of the Lord, it 
was destroyed by the Emperor Titus, but it was restored 
and greatly enlarged by iElius Hadrian, after whom it is 
also now called ALUs.. Whence it happens that, while the 
Lord suffered and was buried beyond the gates of the city, 
the sites of His Passion and Resurrection are now seen 
within the walls. In the great circuit of the walls there are 
shown eighty-four towers, and six gates : first, the Gate of 
David, to the west of Mount Sion ; second, the Gate of the 
Valley of the Fuller ; third, the Gate of St. Stephen ; fourth, 
the Gate of Benjamin ; fifth, a portlet — that is, a p. * 
little gate — by which is the descent by steps to the Valley 
of Josaphat ; sixth, the Gate Thecuitis. 1 There are, how- 
ever, three of these gates that are more frequently used : 



I.— The Situation of Jerusalem. 



1 Or 'of the Tekoiles,' s<* Arculf, p. 2, note i, vi. 

5—2 




68 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



one on the west, another on the north, a third on the east, 
while on the south the northern brow of Mount Sion over- 
hangs the city, and the part of the walls with its interposed 
towers is proved to have no gates, that is, from the above- 
named Gate of David as far as that face of Mount Sion which 
looks eastward, where the rock is precipitous. The situa- 
\h 4. tion of the city itself, beginning from the northern 
brow of Mount Sion, is so disposed on a slight declivity 
sloping to the lower ground of the northern and eastern 
walls, that rain falling there does not settle, but rushes down 
like rivers through the eastern gates, carrying with it all 
the filth of the streets, till it joins the torrent of Cedron in 
the Valley of Josaphat. 

II.— The Church of Constantine and of Golgotha, 
the Church of the Resurrection and the 
Sepulchre of the Lord, the Stone that was 
rolled to the Mouth of the Tomb, the Church 
of St. Mary, the Cup of the Lord and the 
Sponge, the Altar of Abraham, the Soldier's 
Spear. 

p-xo. Such, then, as have entered the city from the 
north to survey the holy places, must first, in accordance 
with the arrangements of the streets, turn to the Church 
of Constantine, which is called the Marty rium. This was 
built in a magnificent and royal manner by the Emperor 
Constantine, because on that spot the Cross of our Lord 
was found by Helena, his mother. To the west of this 
is seen the Church of Golgotha, in which also the rock 
appears which once bore the very Cross to which the body 
of the Lord was nailed, now bearing a silver cross of 
great size, above which hangs a great circular chandelier of 
brass with lamps. Below the site of the Cross of the Lord 
is a crypt cut out in the rock, in which sacrifice is wont to 




CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



69 



be offered upon an altar for honoured dead persons, whose 
bodies meanwhile are placed in the court. To the west 
of this church again, is the round church of pp 5.*- 
the Mwuttoo-49, that is, of the Resurrection of the Lord, 
surrounded with three walls, supported on twelve columns, 
having a broad pathway left between each wall and the 
next, containing three altars in three spaces in the middle 
wall, that is, to the south, the north, and the west. It 
has twice four gates, that is entrances, running in a straight 
line through the three walls, four of them looking to the 
north-east, 1 and four to the south-east In the middle of this 
is the Tomb of the Lord, cut out in the rock, of round form, 
of such height that a man standing within it can touch the 
top with his hand, with an entrance on the east at which 
that great stone was placed ; the interior still shows the 
marks of the iron tools. On the outside it is completely 
covered with marble up to the highest point of the roof, while 
the very highest point, which is adorned with gold, bears a 
golden cross of large size. In the northern part of p. *. 
this Tomb is the Sepulchre of the Lord, cut out in the same 
rock, seven feet in length, raised three palms above the 
pavement, having an entrance on the southern side : twelve 
lamps bum here day and night, four below 2 the Sepulchre, 
eight above on the right side. The stone which was pp. 8, * 
placed at the mouth of the Tomb has been broken in two, the 
smaller part standing as a square altar before the mouth of 
the Tomb, while the larger part stands in the eastern side 
of the church under the linen cloths, also forming a four- 
sided altar. The colour of the Tomb and of the Sepulchre 
is white mixed with red. 

The four-sided Church of the Mother of God also p- 9- 
adjoins this church on its right side. In the court p- «• «. 
which joins the Marty rium and Golgotha is a recess (exedra), 
1 See page 6, note 1. * Others, 1 within.* 




70 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



in which the Cup of the Lord is kept in a shrine, and may 
be touched and kissed through an opening in the cover. It 
is a silver cup, with a handle on each side, holding a French 
quart; 1 in it is the Sponge, which afforded drink to the 

p. ii. Lord. Also on the spot where Abraham built an 
Altar to sacrifice his son, is a wooden table of some size, on 
which the alms of the poor are laid by the people. The 

p. xa. soldier's spear is inserted in a wooden cross in the 
portico of the Martyrium, its shaft having been broken in 
two ; it is held in reverence by the whole city. 

I have caused each of these I have spoken of to be 
depicted in a drawing, so that you may more clearly realize 
the description. 2 

III.— The Temple, the Oratory of the Saracens, 
the Pool of Bethesda, the Fountain of Siloa, / 
the Church built upon Mount Sion, the Place 
of the Stoning of St. Stephen, the Middle of 
the World. 

All these sacred places we have mentioned lie beyond 
Mount Sion, whence a swelling of the ground, lessening 
pp. 4> s- towards the north, stretches. In the lower part of 
the city, where the temple was close to the wall on the east, 
and was connected with the city itself by a bridge for the 
crossing of any, is now a square building, apparently capable 
of holding three thousand men, which the Saracens frequent 
for prayer ; it is rudely built, raised on boards and great 
beams above the remains of ruins. A few cisterns for water 
are to be seen there. In the neighbourhood of the temple is 
the Pool of Bethsaida, 3 like a twin lake, the one being often 

1 See page 1 1, note 4. * This drawingjs given in Pa. 

* The questions connected with the Pool of Bethesda are discussed 
at length by Sir Charles Wilson, in Appendix III. of the translation 
of the Bordeaux Pilgrim, pp. 45 ff., where, however, this reference is 
omitted. See also 'City of Jerusalem/ Note, pp. 65 ff. 



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CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



7i 



filled with winter showers, while the other is discoloured 
with red water. From that face^of Mount Sion which looks 
eastwards, where the rock is precipitous, there rushes out 
within the walls and in the roots of the hill, the Fountain of 
Siloa, which flows southwards with an alternating access of 
waters, that is, not in a perpetual flow, but boiling up at 
certain hours and days, and coming through the hollows of 
the earth and the caves of hardest rock with a great noise. 

In the higher part of Mount Sion, many cells of p. 20. 
monks surround a large church, built, as they affirm, by the 
Apostles on the spot where they received the Holy Spirit, 
. and where St Mary died ; this is also the venerable site 
of the Supper of the Lord. There is also, standing in the 
middle of the church, a marble column, to which the Lord 
was bound when He was scourged. The form of this church 
is said to be as is drawn below. 1 

There is shown a rock, above which the sainted p. *>. 
proto-martyr Stephen was stoned without the city ; while in 
the middle of Jerusalem, on the spot where a dead p. x6, 17. 
man came to life again when the Cross of the Lord was 
placed on him, stands a lofty column, which throws no 
shadow at the summer solstice, whence it is thought that 
this is the middle of the earth, as is said in history ; ■ But 
God, our King, before the ages has wrought salvation in 
the midst of the earth.' Influenced by this opinion, Vic- 
torinus also, one of the chief men of the Church of Pettau,* 
writing about Golgotha, begins thus : 

1 There is a spot we hold the midst of all the world ; 
In their own tongue the Jews call it Golgotha.' 

1 M.j Pc, give a drawing of the church. 

•This is the only authority for attributing these, or any other, 
extant verses to St. Victorinus, Bishop of Pattau, in Upper Pannonia, 
martyred under Diocletian (?). See Smith's c Diet, of Christian Biog.,' 
iv., p. 1 128. 




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THE VENERABLE BEDE 



IV.— The Napkin of the Head of the Lord, and 

ANOTHER LARGER LlNEN CLOTH WOVEN BY ST. MARY. 

pp. xa-xs. After the Resurrection of the Lord, the napkin 
that had been about His head was stolen by a Jew, who 
soon after became a true Christian and retained k by him till 
his death, and who meanwhile became rich. When dying, 
pp. xi, 12, X3- he asks his sons, which of them wished to receive 
the napkin of the Lord, which to possess the rest of his 
father's wealth. The elder chose the earthly treasure, the 
younger the napkin. And straightway the former decreases 
until the elder son comes to poverty ; while with faith his 
brother's wealth increases, and his faithful descendants 
therefore retained it even to the fifth generation. After- 
wards it came into the possession of impious persons, whose 
wealth it so greatly increased that it occasioned great 
quarrels for a long time; the Christian Jews claiming to 
be the heirs of Christ, while unbelieving Jews claimed to 
be the heirs of their fathers ; until, after long contention, 
Mauvias, 1 the King of the Saracens in bur own time, was 
called on to act as judge. Lighting a great fire, he prays 
to Christ to judge who was worthy to possess this napkin 
which He had deigned to wear about His head for their 
salvation. He then cast it into the fire, when it was 
snatched suddenly and flew upwards, and remained for 
a very long time at a great height, flying in the air as if at 
play, and at last, while all were gazing on it from both 
sides, it descended lightly and deposited itself in the bosom 
of one of the Christians, being saluted and kissed immedi- 
ately by the whole people with the greatest reverence. It 

p. x«. is eight feet in length. Another linen cloth of 

1 In other MSS., 1 Majuuias,' * Mauuras,' 1 Moawieh.' See p. 14, 



note 1. 




CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



73 



much larger size, is venerated in the church, which is said 
to have been woven by St Mary, having the likenesses of 
the twelve Apostles and of the Lord Himself, one side 
being red and the other green. 

V.— The Places round Jerusalem, the Valley of 
Josaphat, his Sepulchre and those of others, 
the Church in which St. Mary was buried. 

Round Jerusalem the ground is rough and p.«. 
mountainous. Hence to the north, as far as Arimathia, the 
ground is rocky and rough, though not quite continuously, 
while thorny valleys lie towards the Tanitic region ; while 
towards Cesarea of Palestine from jElia, although some 
narrow, small, rough spots are found, yet, for the most 
part, the ground is a level plain, with olive groves scattered 
over it These places are seventy-five miles distant from 
each other, while the length of the Land of Promise from 
Dan to Bersabee extends over 160 miles, from Joppa to 
Bethlehem being forty-six miles. 

Next the wall of the Temple or of Jerusalem on p. ». 
the east is Gehennon, or the Valley of Josaphat, stretching 
from north to south, through which the torrent of Cedron runs, 
at least when it receives water from the rains. This valley 
is a small plain, watered, and wooded, and full of delights, 
and once had in it a grove 1 sacred to Baal. In this p. is. 
is the Tower of King Josaphat, containing his sepulchre ; on 
its right hand is a separate building hewn out of the rock of 
Mount Olivet, containing two rock-hewn sepulchres, being 
those of the aged Simeon and of Joseph, the spouse of St. 
Mary. In this same valley is the round Church of p. 17. 
St. Mary, divided in two by a stone vaulting, having four 
altars in the upper part, and in the lower portion one altar to 



1 Others, ' and spot.* 



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74 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



the east, and on its right hand an empty tomb, in which St. 
Mary is said to have rested for some time ; but by whom, 
and when, the body was taken away is unknown. Those 
who enter this see on the right, inserted in the wall, the 
rock on which the Lord prayed on the night in which He 
was betrayed, the marks of His knees being impressed as if 
in soft wax. 

VI. — The place where Judas was hanged, and 

ACHELDEMAC. 

p. X9 . Those going out by the Gate of David find a 
bridge 1 stretching southwards across the valley, at the middle 
of which, on the west side, Judas is said to have hanged 
himself. For here stands a fig tree of great size and of 
very great age, alluding to which Juvencus says : 

* From fig- tree top he snatched a shapeless death/ 

p. ax. Further on is Acheldemac, on the south of Mount 
Sion, where strangers 2 and other persons of no note are still 
buried, while others putrefy there unburied. 

VII. — The Mount of Olivet, and the Church 
built there, where the lord ascended into 
the Heavens— the Tomb of Lazarus, and a 
third Church. 

pp. 21, m. The Mount of Olives, which is a mile distant from 
Jerusalem, is equal to Mount Sion in height, but excels it 
in length and breadth. With the exception of vines and 
olives, the ground is almost destitute of trees, but it is 
fertile in corn and barley, and the quality of the soil is suit- 
able for grass and flowers, Hot for trees. On its summit, 
where the Lord ascended to heaven, is a round church 
of large size, having in its circuit three vaulted porticoes 
1 Others, ' fountain.' f Or 4 pilgrims' ; see p. 21, note 2, 



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75 



covered over above. For the interior of the house pp. m-** 
could not be vaulted over or covered, on account of the 
passage (Ascension) of the Lord's body from that spot ; it 
has an altar towards the east, protected by a narrow roof; 
in the centre of it are seen the last footprints of the Lord, 
under the open heaven, where He ascended. And although 
the earth is daily carried away by the believing, they none 
the less remain and still retain the same appearance of their 
own, as if marked by impressed footsteps. Around these 
lies a hollow brass cylinder as high as one's neck, 1 with an 
entrance from the west, while a great lamp is hung above it 
by pulleys, burning the whole night and day. In the western 
side of that church are eight windows and the same number 
of lamps hung by ropes opposite to them ; their light is shed 
through the glass as far as Jerusalem, and is said to smite 
the hearts of the beholders with a certain eagerness and 
compunction. On the day of the Ascension of the Lord 
each year, after Mass is performed, a storm of strong wind 
comes down regularly and lays prostrate on the ground all 
that are in the church. On that night so many lamps are 
lighted there, that the mountain and the places at its foot 
appear not only to be illuminated but even to be on fire. 

We have thought it right to give a drawing of this church 
below. 2 

The Tomb of Lazarus is pointed out by a church >p. «7- 
built there, and by a large monastery, in a certain plain 
of Bethany, surrounded by a great wood of olives. Now 
Bethany is fifteen furlongs distant from Jerusalem. There 
is also a third church on the same mountain, towards the 
southern side of Bethany, where the Lord spoke to His 
disciples before the Passion about the Day of Judgment. 



1 Others, ' head and neck,' or only 1 head.' 
9 The drawing is wanting in almost all MSS* 



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THE VENERABLE BEDE 



VIII.— The Situation of Bethlehem, the Church' 
upon the Place where the Lord was born, the 
Sepulchres of David and Hieronymus and the 
Three Shepherds, and also that of Rachel. 

pp. »8, 99- Bethlehem, which lies six miles 1 southwards from 
Jerusalem, is situated on a narrow ridge, which is surrounded 
on all sides by valleys, and is a mile long from west to east, 
a low wall without towers being built right round the level 
summit In the eastern corner of this is a sort of natural 
half cave, the exterior of which is said to have been the 
place of the Nativity of the Lord, while the interior is called 
the Manger of the Lord. This cave, the interior of which 
is wholly covered over with precious marble, has, above the 
exact spot where the Lord is said to have been born, the 

p. a* large Church of St. Mary. A rock, hollowed out 
close to the wall, still preserves the water in which the Body 
of the Lord was first washed, which it caught as. it was 
thrown from the wall ; and this water, if it should be 
exhausted either by accident or intentionally, is always 
restored to its full extent even while you look at it. 

p. a* To the north of Bethlehem, in the neighbouring 
valley, the Sepulchre of David is covered over in the middle 
of a church by a low stone, with a lamp placed above it ; 
while to the south, in a neighbouring valley, there is in a 
church the Sepulchre of St. Hieronymus. In this I have 
followed the account given by Arculf, a Bishop of the 
Gauls. But Esdras writes clearly, that David was buried 
in Jerusalem. 

p. 3i. Farther to the east in the Tower of Ader, that 
is, of the flock, a mile from the city, is a church containing 
the tombs of the shepherds who were informed of the 
Nativity of <the Lord. A royal road leads from jElia to 
1 The real distance is five English miles. 



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Chebron, leaving Bethlehem to the east, and to the west 
the Sepulchre of Rachel, still signed with the inscription 
of her name. 

IX.— The Situation of Hebron, Mambre, and the 
Tomb of the Patriarchs and of Adam, the 
Pine Wood. 

Hebron is situated along a plain, twenty-two pp. 33. 
miles from jElia. A furlong to the east, it has a double 
cave in a valley, where the Sepulchres of the Patriarchs are 
surrounded by a rectangular wall, their heads turned to the 
north, each of them covered with one stone hewn like a 
Basilica, the stone being white in the case of the Patriarchs, 
darker and of commoner workmanship in Adam's, who lies 
not far from them towards the north end of that wall. 
Poorer and smaller monuments of their three wives are also 
seen. The hill of Mambre, a mile to the north of p. 33. 
these tombs, is very grassy and flowery, having a level plain 
at the summit, in the northern part of which is the oak of 
Abraham, surrounded by a church, its trunk being the height 
of two men. Those coming from Hebron north- p. 3* 
wards, have on their left hand a mountain of small extent 
covered with pines, three miles from Hebron, whence pine 
wood is carried to Jerusalem on camels ; for in all Judea 
carts or waggons are rare. 

X— Jericho and its Holy Places, Galgal and the 
Fountain of Heliseus, the Great Plain. 

Jericho is nineteen 1 miles to the east of iElia, and p. 35. 
as it has been levelled to the ground three times, only the 
house of Raab remains, as a sign of her faith ; for its walls 
are still standing, though without a roof. The site of the 
city produces corn and vines. Between it and the Jordan, 
1 a, /V., have 4 14*000 feet Pa., 1 18 miles.' 




78 



THE VENERABLE BEDS 



which is five or six miles from it, there are great palm 
groves, with open spaces left, which are inhabited by 

p. 36. Chananeans. The twelve stones which Josua ordered 
to be taken from the Jordan lie in a church at Galgal built 
just within the walls ; they are so large that one of them can 
now scarcely be lifted by two men ; while one of them has 
been broken by some unknown accident, but has been joined 
together again by an iron band. Close to Jericho is a copious 
fountain of drinking-water, good for irrigating purposes, 
which was once sterile and unhealthy for drinking, but was 
healed by Heliseus the prophet, when he cast salt into it It 
is surrounded by a plain seventy furlongs in length, and 
twenty in breadth, in which are marvellously fair gardens, 
with many varieties of palms 1 and most excellent breeds 
of bees. There the opobalsamum is produced, which we 
name thus with an affix because the husbandmen, with 
sharp stones, cut slender channels through the bark, in 
which the balsam is generated, so that the sap, after 
distilling slowly through those caverns, collects in beauti- 
fully bedewed tears ; and a cavern is called in Greek oinj, 
Ope. Here, they say, the Cyprus and the myrobalanus* 

"Apple*'/*. 

* It is impossible to identify exactly the trees referred to. (1) The 
name Opobalsamum, given to the sap extracted from the Balsam tree, 
is not derived from Mi, a hole, but from Mg, the milky juice 

flowing from a plant, either naturally or by incision. The Hebrew 
word for the balsam, tsdri, is derived from the root, meaning *fissurej 
referring to the practice of drawing it from the tree in this way. But 
it is much disputed what is the real Balsam tree, and whether the tree 
from which the Balm of Gilead was obtained was also the Balsam 
tree of Jericho. (2) The Cyprus tree (the camphire of Cant. i. 14, 
iv. 13) probably derives its name from the Hebrew Kaphar, to cover 
ox paint. It is the Arabic Henna, a red stain much used for the nails 
being made from its dry leaves. It is the Lawsonia Inermis. . (3) The 
Myrobalanus is variously identified. Either it or the Balsam tree 
may be the Zackum tree, variously named Elaagnus angustifolia and 
Balanites /Egyptiaca, the oil obtained from which is highly esteemed 



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CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



79 



grow. The water, as in some other fountains, but here 
more especially, is cold in summer, tepid in winter ; the air 
is milder, so that in the depth of winter linen clothing is 
worn. The city itself is built in a plain, and is overhung 
by an extensive mountain,- bare of anything fruitful : for 
the soil of the country is barren, and therefore it is without 
inhabitants. A wide extent of country stretches from 
the district of-the city of Scythopolis to that of Sodom and 
the Asphaltic region. Opposite this, a mountain extends 
above the Jordan, from the city of Julias to Zoar, 1 which 
is conterminous with Arabia Petraea, where there is a 
mountain called Ferreus. Between these two mountains 
stretches a plain, which the ancients called 4 the Great/ or 
in Hebrew, 4 Aulon/ 230 furlongs in length, 120 in breadth, 
extending from the village of Gennabara to the Asphaltic 
Lake. The Jordan intersects it, with banks verdant from 
the watering of the river, the trees upon its banks being 
much more fruitful than elsewhere, where they are more 
barren ; for all the land beyond the bank of the river is dry. 

XI. — The Jordan and the Sea of Galilee. 

The Jordan is commonly supposed to rise in the pp. », 4* 
province of Phenicia, at the roots of Mount Lebanon, where 
Paneum, that is, Cesarea Philippi, is situated. For this reason 
we learn that Paneum, that is, 4 the grotto/ through which the 
Jordan flows, was constructed and adorned with admirable 
beauty by King Agrippa. There is, however, in the district 
of Trachonitis a fountain resembling a disc, 2 whence it has 
received the name of Phiala ; it is fifteen miles from Caesarea, 

by the Arabs as a cure for wounds. It grows near Jericho. This may 
not improbably be the Myrobalanus, while the Balsam tree may be 
the Cistus Creticus.— Abbot Daniel, p. 8, note 4. 
1 See p. 39, note 1. 

3 ' Rota.' ' The reference is apparently to the sun's disc, often called 
rota.'-C. W. W. 




8o 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



and is so constantly full of water, that it never overflows and 
never diminishes. Into this Philip, the tetrarch of the region, 
cast straws, which the river cast up in Paneum. Whence it 
follows that the source of the Jordan is in Phiala, but that 
it flows through subterranean channels to Paneum, where it 
begins to be visible as a river ; soon entering the lake, it 
intersects its marshes ; thence it directs its course for fifteen 1 
miles without receiving any addition, to the city called 
Julias ; afterwards it flows through the middle of the Lake 
of Genezar, whence, after passing many places, it enters the 
Asphaltic, that is the Dead Sea, and there loses its famous 
p. 38. waters. It is of a white colour, like milk, and on this 
account is recognised for a long distance in the Dead 
pp. 40. 41. Sea. Now Genezar, that is, the Sea of Galilee, is 
surrounded by great woods ; it is 140 furlongs in length, 
40 in breadth ; the water is sweet and good for drinking, 
since it receives nothing thick with marsh mud or turbid, 
because it is surrounded on all sides by a sandy shore. It 
is surrounded also by agreeable towns, — on the east by 
Julias and Hippo, on the west by Tiberias, which is healthy 
from its hot waters ; the kinds of fish are better as regards 
taste and appearance than in any other lake. 

XII.— The Dead Sea, and its Nature, and that of 
the Neighbouring District. 

p. 39- The Dead Sea extends 580* furlongs in length to 
Zoar of Arabia, 150 in breadth to the neighbourhood of 
Sodom ; for it is most certain that after the burning of Sodom 
and Gomorrha and the neighbouring cities, it flowed in from 
what were once wells of salt It is seen also by those look- 
p. 41- ing towards it from afar, from the watch-tower of 
p. 3* Mount Olivet ; because the colliding movement of 
the waves casts out the most salt salt, which is dried by the 
1 1 Twelve,' Pc. * 4 Five hundred and eight,' Pb. 




CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



81 



sun, and used by many nations. There is further said to be 
salt, in a mountain of Sicily, where stones turned out of the 
ground supply a true salt, most useful for all purposes, which 
is known as Earth Salt. The Sea is called ■ Dead 9 because it 
does not contain any kind of living creatures, whether fish 
or such birds as are met with beside water, while bulls and 
camels float on it. 1 Finally, if the Jordan has been swollen 
by rain and has carried down fishes in its flood, they 
die immediately and float above the oily waters. They say 
that a lighted lamp floats above it unchanged/ and does not 
sink so as to put out the light, while if a vessel has been 
submerged by any device it can scarcely be caused to 
remain in the depths, and all living creatures even if 
submerged and vehemently beaten down, at once rise to the 
surface : while finally, they say that Vespasian ordered men 
who could not swim, to have their hands bound and then 
to be thrown into the deep, and they floated above 
it. The water is barren 8 and bitter, and darker than 
other waters, and produces a sort of parched feeling. It is 
certain that lumps of bitumen float in a black liquid on the 
water, which they collect in boats. The bitumen is said to 
adhere to them so that it cannot be cut off even by iron 
tools, yielding only to menstruous blood or urine. It is 
useful for caulking joints in ships and for healing the human 
body. The district still retains the appearance of the 
punishment (of the Cities of the Plain) ; for very beautiful 
apples grow there, which excite among spectators a desire 
to eat them, but when plucked, they burst and are reduced 
to ashes, and give rise to smoke as if they were still burn- 
ing. Also in summer an immoderate amount of vapour 

1 P6. reads, ' while bitumen floats on it resembling gold and a camel 
in appearance.' 

* The same MS. reads, ' unchanged, so that the light can neither be 
sprinkled nor be submerged, because if a vessel,' etc. 
' Probably 1 unprofitable,' useless for drinking. 



6 




82 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



steams up over the plains, while the unhealthy drought and 
the dryness of the soil unite to corrupt the air and destroy 
the inhabitants with deplorable diseases. 

XIII. — The Place where the Lord was Baptized. 

pp. 36-38. At the place where the Lord was baptized, a wooden 
cross stands, as high as one's neck, which is often hidden 
by the rising of the water ; the further or eastern bank is 
as far distant from it as one can sling a stone, while the 
nearer bank has on the top of a hill the great monastery of 
the Blessed John Baptist, the church of which is celebrated, 
from which people are wont to pass down to that cross 
by a bridge raised on arches, and pray. At the edge 
of the river is a square church built on four stone vaults, 
covered over above with slacked lime, 1 where the garments 
worn by the Lord when He was baptized, are said to be 
preserved. This, men do not usually enter, but the 2 waves 
surround and penetrate it From the point where the 
Jordan issues from the ravine of the Sea of Galilee to that 
where it enters the Dead Sea, is eight 8 days' journey. 

XIV. — The Locusts and the Wild Honey, and the 



p. 43- There seems to have been a very small kind of 
locust, which John the Baptist fed upon, and which is still 
found, with a thin short body like the finger of a hand, which 
is easily taken in the grass, and is used for food by the 
poor, when cooked in oil In the same desert there are trees 
with broad round leaves of the colour of milk and the 
taste of honey, which being naturally fragile, are rubbed in 
the hands and eaten. This is what is called 'wild 

1 See p. 38, note 1. 

8 ' But on all sides they surround/ Pcj 'enter or descend thence,' 0. 
• ' Fifteen/ PK 



Fountain of John the Baptist. 




CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



83 



honey/ In the same place the fountain of St John 
Baptist is shown, the water being clear ; it is protected by 



XV.— The Fountain of Jacob near Sichem. 

Near the city of Sichem, which is now called pp. 41,43. 
Neapolis, is a four-armed church, that is, one built in the 
form of a cross, in the middle 1 of which is the Fountain of 
Jacob, forty cubits in height, which the Lord honoured by 
asking water from it from the woman of Samaria. 

XVL— Tjberias and Capharnaum and Nazareth 
and the Holy Places there. 

The place where the Lord blessed the bread and p. 43- 
the fish is on this side of the Sea of Galilee, to the north of 
the city of Tiberias : a grassy level plain which has never 
since been ploughed, and which has no buildings on it, 
showing only a fountain from which they drank. Those 
who come from iEIia to Capharnaum pass through p. 44. 
Tiberias, and thence along the Sea of Galilee and the place 
where the bread was blessed : not far from which is Caphar- 
naum, on the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim, having no 
wall, situated in a narrow space between the mountain and 
the lake above the sea shore, extending for a long distance 
eastwards, having the mountain on the north, and the lake 
on the south. Nazareth has no walls, but great p. 45. 
buildings and two large churches. One in the middle of the 
city is founded on two vaults, where once there was the 
house in which the Lord was nourished in His infancy- 
This church, as has been said, is raised on two mounds, with 
arches interposed, having down below among these mounds 

1 Tobler omits as unintelligible * stretching from the side to the end 
of the fingers.' See p. 42. 



a stone covering besmeared with lime. 



6—2 




84 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



a very clear fountain, frdm which all the citizens draw their 
water in vessels by means of pulleys. There is another 
church, where the house was in which the angel came to 
Mary. 

XVII. — Mount Tabor and the Three Churches 



p. 46. Mount Tabor, in the middle of the plain of Galilee, 
rises up to the north at a 1 distance of three miles from the 
Sea of Genezareth ; it is completely round, very grassy and 
flowery, 30 furlongs in height Its summit forms a very 
pleasant level surface of 23 s furlongs, where is a large 
monastery surrounded by a large wood, having three 
churches, according to what Peter said, 4 Let us make here 
three tabernacles.' The place is surrounded by a wall, and 
has great buildings. 

XVIII.— The Situation of Damascus. 

p. 47. Damascus is situated in a wide plain, with an 
ample circuit of walls, and is fortified by frequent towers ; 
four great rivers flow through it. While the Christians 
frequent the Church of St John Baptist, the king of the 
Saracens with his people has built and consecrated another. 
There are a very large number of olive groves round the 
city outside the walls. From Tabor to Damascus is seven 
days 9 journey. 

XIX —The Situation of Alexandria, the Church 
in which Mark the Evangelist rests, and the 



pp. 4«-5». Alexandria is a long city from west to east, 
surrounded on the south by the mouths of the Nile, on the 
1 Several MSS. here mention the tribe of Manasseh. * 4 24/ Pb. 



ON IT. 



Nile. 




CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 



85 



north by the Egyptian Sea, 1 having a harbour more difficult 
than others, in form like the human body — more capacious 
at the head and the roads, but narrower in the straits, where it 
receives the sea and ships in movement, by which some aids 
to breathing are given to the port. When one has escaped 
the narrows and the mouths of the harbour, a stretch of sea 
spreads out far and wide like the rest of the human form. 
On the right side of the port is a small island, on which 
stands Pharus, that is, a very large tower, which burns 
during the night with the flames of torches, lest sailors 
should be deceived in the darkness and fall upon rocks, or 
fail to recognise the boundary of the entrance, because it 
is always unquiet, with waves always breaking. But the 
harbour is always calm ; it is thirty furlongs in extent 

Those entering the city from the Egyptian side pp. $h st- 
are met on the right hand by a Church, in which rests the 
blessed Evangelist Mark. His body is buried in the 
eastern end of that church before the altar, a square marble 
monument being placed above the spot 

Around the Nile the Egyptians are in the habit p. s». 
of making frequent ramparts on account of the irruption of 
the waters, which, should they be broken by the careless- 
ness of the guardians, instead of irrigating, ruin the under- 
lying ground. And because the Egyptians inhabit the 
plains, they build their houses upon the banks of the 
waters, supporting them on transverse beams. 

XX.— Constantinople, and the Basilica in that 
City which contains the Cross of the Lord. 

Constantinople is surrounded on all sides except p. 53- 
the north by the Great Sea, extending sixty miles from it 
to the wall of the city, and forty miles from the wall of the 
city to the mouths of the Danube ; it is surrounded by 
Most MSS., ' By the Mareotic Lake.' 



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86 



THE VENERABLE BEDE 



a circuit of walls twelve miles in length, with angles corre- 
p.54. sponding to the sea-board. At first Constantine 
had fixed to build it 1 by the sea which separates Asia from 
Europe; but one night all the tools were taken away, 
and they were found by . those sent to look for them, on 
the European side, where the city now is ; for it was thus 
understood to be God's will that it should be built there. 
pp. 55-57- In this city is a church of marvellous workman- 
ship, called St Sophia, constructed from the foundation on 
a round plan and vaulted, surrounded by three walls, and 
supported by great columns and raised on arches, the in- 
terior of which has in its northern end a large and exceed- 
ingly beautiful ambry, in which is a wooden chest covered 
with a wooden covering, which contains three parts of the 
Cross of the Lord, viz., the long beam cut into two parts 
and the cross beam of that Holy Cross. This is brought 
out to be adored by the people on only three days of the 
year, that is, on [the day of] the Supper of the Lord, on the 
Day of Preparation and on [the day of] the Holy Sabbath,* 
when the first chest is laid opened on the golden altar (it is 
two cubits in height and one in breadth) with the Holy 
Cross. The Emperor first approaches and adores and 
kisses the Holy Cross, then all ranks of the laity in order ; 
on the next day the Empress and all the matrons and 
virgins do the same ; while on the third day the Bishops 
and all ranks of the clergy do the same; and so the 
chest is again closed and carried back to the above-named 
ambry. But as long as it remains open upon the altar, 
a marvellous odour pervades the whole church ; for from 
the knots of the holy wood there flows a sweet-smelling 
liquid like oil, of which if any sick person touch a particle, 
it heals all his sickness. 
1 ' In Cilicia ' in some MSS. . 

* That is to say, on Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, and the 
Saturday before Easter. 




CONCERNING THE HOLY PLACES. 87 



XXI. — Epilogue. 

In this account of the holy places, I have, as far as I 
could, followed trustworthy histories, and especially that of 
Arculf, a Bishop of Gaul, which the presbyter Adamnan, 
one most learned in the Scriptures, has written in three 
books in the Latin language. The prelate I have men- 
tioned, leaving his own country, from his desire after the 
holy places, went to the land of promise, and there stayed 
some months in Jerusalem, using an aged monk, Peter 
by name, equally as guide and as interpreter, and visited 
in his course all the places he had so vividly longed to see, 
not to speak of Alexandria, Damascus, Constantinople, and 
Sicily. But when he wished to revisit his native country, 
the ship in which he sailed was, after many wanderings, 
brought by a contrary wind to our island of Britain, and 
at length after many dangers he came to the venerable 
man of whom we have spoken, Adamnan, to whom he gave 
an account of his journey and of what he saw, and whom 
he thus taught to become the writer of a most excellent 
history. From this we have culled some parts and com- 
pared them with the books of the ancients, and we transmit 
them to thee to read, entreating through all that thou be 
careful to temper the labour of the present age, not by the 
ease of a lascivious body, but by zeal in reading and in 
prayer. * 



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APPENDIX. 



TRANSLATION OF PORTIONS OF 1 ARCULFS NARRATIVE/ 
FROM PROFESSOR WILLIS' 4 HOLY SEPULCHRE.' 

\Williamf 4 Holy Cityi vol. h\: London, 1849.] 



Of the Church of the Sepulchre of the Lord. 

(Pages 5, 6 ; cap. L, last sentence, and cap. ii.) 
4 CONCERNING these things we diligently interrogated the 
holy Arculfus, and especially about the Sepulchre of the 
Lord, and the church constructed above it, of which he 
delineated the form for me upon a waxen tablet This 
great church, all of stone, of wondrous rotundity on all 
sides, arising from its foundation in three walls, has a broad 
passage between each wall and the next. In three 
ingeniously constructed places of the middle wall three 
altars are disposed, one looking to the south, another to 
the north, and the third towards the west ; and this round 
and lofty church is sustained by twelve columns of 
wondrous magnitude, and it has eight doors or entrances 
formed by three walls erected in the intermediate spaces 
between the passages. Of these, four are turned to the 
south-east, and the other four to the north-east.' — 4 Holy 
City/ ii. 259. 



' In the centre of this circular church is situated a round 
cabin (tegurium), cut out of a single piece of rock, within 



(Pages 6-9, capp. iii., iv.) 



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APPENDIX. 



89 



which there is space for nine men to stand and pray. The 
vaulted roof is about a foot and ahalf above the head 
of a man of no short stature.' The entrance of this little 
chamber is to the east. The whole of its exterior surface 
is covered with choice marble, and the highest part of its 
outer roof, ornamented with gold, sustains a golden cross 
of no small magnitude. The Sepulchre of the Lord is in 
the north part of the chamber, and is cut out of the same 
rock as it, but the pavement of the chamber is lower than 
the place of sepulture ; for there is an altitude of about 
three paims from the pavement to the lateral edge of the 
sepulchre. ... By the Sepulchre, properly so called, is 
meant that place in the north part of the monumental 
chamber, in which the body, wrapped in linen clothes, was 
deposited, the length of which Arculfus measured with his 
own hand as seven feet. Which sepulchre is not, as some 
erroneously imagine, hollowed out into a double form (*>., 
in the shape of the body), having a projection left from the 
solid rock, between and separating the legs and thighs, but 
is simple and plain from the head to the feet, and is a 
couch affording room for one man lying on his back. It is 
in the manner of a cave, having its opening at the side, and 
opposite the south part of the monumental chamber. The 
low roof is artificially wrought above it. In this sepulchre 
twelve lamps, according to the number of the twelve holy 
Apostles, burn day and night continually, of which four are 
placed below in the inner part of that sepulchral couch, 
and the other eight above, over the margin on the right 
side. . . . This chamber of the Lord's monument, not 
being covered within by any ornaments, exhibits to this 
day the marks of the workmen's tools by which it was 
excavated. The colour of the rock of the monument and 
sepulchre is not uniform, but a mixture of red and white.' 
— ' Holy City,' iL 174, 175. 




9o 



APPENDIX. 



Of the Church of St. Mary. 



(Page 9, cap. v.) 



1 The quadrangular church of Holy Mary, the Mother of 
the Lord, is joined on the right side to that round church 
described above, and which is called Anastasis, or Resur- 
rection, because it is constructed on the place of the Lord's 
resurrection.' 



* Another church, of great magnitude, is constructed 
towards the east in that place which is called Golgotha. 
In its upper parts there hangs by ropes a certain brazen 
"rota with lamps, beneath which a great silver cross is 
infixed in the very same place where formerly the wooden 
cross, on which the Saviour of mankind suffered, was fixed 
and stood. 

• In the same church there is a cave cut out of the rock 
beneath the place of the Lord's cross, where the sacrifice 
is offered upon an altar for the souls of certain honoured 
persons, whose bodies, meanwhile, lying in the street, are 
placed before the door of the said Golgothan Church, until 
the holy mysteries for the defunct are finished. 



'To this church, constructed upon a quadrangular plan in 
the place of Calvary, there adjoins on the eastern side that 
neighbouring stone basilica, erected with great magnificence 
by the royal Constantine, called also the Martyrium, which 
was located, as they say, in the place where the cross of 
our Lord, with the other two crosses of the thieves, con- 



Of the Church of Calvary. 

(Pages 9, io, cap. vi.) 



Of the Basilica of Constantine. 

(Pages io, 1 1, capp. vii., viii.) 




APPENDIX. 



9i 



cealed under the earth, was found by the gift of the Lord, 
after two hundred and thirty-three years. Between these 
two churches occurs that famous place where Abraham the 
Patriarch erected an altar for the sacrifice of Isaac . . 
where now there stands a small wooden table upon which 
people offer alms for the poor. . . . Between the ' Anas- 
tasis,' that is, the above-described church, and the Basilica 
of Constantine is a small court, extending as far as the 
Golgothan Church, in which court lamps are kept con- 
stantly burning day and night.' 

Of the other Exedra in the Church of Calvary. 



'Between the Golgothan Church and the Martyrium 
is a certain " Exedra," or apse, in which is the cup. This 
Arculfus goes on to describe as the cup of the Last Supper,* 
and also to state that he saw the ' sponge ' and the ' lance.' 
— 1 Holy City/ ii., 259-261. 



(Pages 11, 12, cap. ix.) 



THE END. 



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JERUSALEM: 

$be City of 1>erol> ano of Salafcin. 

BY 

WALTER BESANT and EDWARD HENRY PALMER. 



NEW EDITION. 



(RICHARD BENTLEY AND SON.) 



The First Edition of this Work was published in October, 1871. 
For a long time it has been out of print and not to be obtained. A 
New Edition has now been prepared, with certain alterations and 
corrections, and with a New Preface by the survivor of the two 
Authors. 

The Book is a History of the City from the Siege of Titus, inclusive, 
to Modern Times. It is written partly from the Works of the Cru- 
sading Historians, the Travels of the Early Pilgrims, and other 
authorities not often consulted; and partly from the accounts of 
Mohammedan Writer's, whose works have never before been used for 
the purpose. The result is a History told from a double point of 
view — the Christian and the Moslem. 

The following is the Table of Contents : — 

Chapters I. and IL^The Siege by Titus. 

Chapter III.— From Titus to Omar.— The Revolt of Barcochebas— Constan- 
tine's Church of the Anastasis— Julian the Apostate— Simeon Stylites — 
Chosroes the Persian. 

Chapter IV.— The Mohammedan Conquest.— From Moslem Historians— 
The Mosque of Omar— The Dome of the Rock — Translation of the Cufic In- 
scription in the Dome — Hakem and the Drures— The Turkomans, etc. 

Chapter V.— The Christian Pilgrims.— The Story of the Christian Pilgrims, 
from the Second Century to the Eleventh— The Pilgrim Service— The Crowds 
of Pilgrims— Willibald— The Story of Frotmond— The September Fair— 
Raoul the Bald— Raymond of Plaisance— Lielbert — The Archbishop of 
Mayence, etc 

Chapters VI.-XV.— The Crusades and the Latin Kingdom. 

Chapter XVI.— Saladin.. 

Chapter XVII.— The Mohammedan Pilgrims. 

Chapter XVHL— The Chronicle of Six Hundred Years.— Palestine alter 
the Crusades— The Crusade of Children— Frederick II.— The Invasion of the 
Kharezmians — Louis IX.— The Taking of Acre— Conclusion. 



This Book has been culded by the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund to 
their List of Publications. Copies may be obtained by Subscribers only, at the 
Office, 1, Adam Street, Adelphi, tV.C. 9 forthe sum of Five Shillings and 
Sixpence, Carriage Paid. 



* # * Cheques and Post Office Orders payable to the order of George 
Armstrong, Assistant Secretary to the Fund. 



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